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Bure Family Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon “Thirteen”

California, United States 2013 (750mL)
$185.00
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Bure Family Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon “Thirteen”

We’re lucky to be able to taste luxury-tier wines like today’s, but, whether it’s their pricing or their scarcity (or both), we don’t necessarily get to drink very many of them. In some cases, frankly, it’s hard to imagine drinking more than a glass or two anyway, given the sheer mass sweetness of many wines in the category. But then there are those, like today’s, that remind you why so-called ‘cult Cabernets’ became so popular: It’s not their exclusivity, nor their wealth-signifying price tags, but rather the hedonistic pleasure they deliver. 
Today’s 2013 from Bure Family Wines (a St. Helena-based label owned by ex-NHL hockey player Valeri “Val” Bure and his wife, the actress Candace Cameron) goes beyond hedonism into ‘serious’ territory. In terms of modern Napa Cabernet, this is about as good as it gets. You could put this in a blind line-up of Napa’s most expensive and sought-after labels and it would easily compete, if not end up with a medal. Crafted by French-born consultant (and ex-Peter Michael winemaker) Luc Morlet, Bure’s “Thirteen” is in no way inexpensive—unless you compare it to Napa’s top cult bottlings, which, if its critical acclaim is any indication, it has clearly been placed among. This is rich, layered, muscular Napa Cabernet with a strong resemblance to classified-growth Bordeaux (which isn’t surprising given Morlet’s involvement) and is structured for extended aging. We tasted it alongside a host of other powerhouse Napa Cabernets, and it distinguished itself not by being the ‘biggest’ but by showing the most character. It’s not merely impressive; it’s memorable.
Though some might be inclined to dismiss this bottle as a celebrity hobby project, tasting results don’t lie. Russian-born Val Bure had a long career in the NHL, playing for the Montreal Canadiens and Calgary Flames, among others, and was originally turned on to wine by teammates during his playing days. He and Candace (best known for her role in the TV show “Full House”) purchased a property in St. Helena several years ago, which included about two hectares of vineyards, although the Bure wines are sourced from other, more mature sites in town. St. Helena is also the home base for vintner and consultant Luc Morlet, who had put his roots down in 2010 via the purchase of the former Castner Winery estate in St. Helena. Morlet was born in Epernay, France, in the heart of Champagne, and worked on his family domaine as a child; years later, after graduating from enology school, he worked in both Champagne and Bordeaux before relocating to the US in 1996. His California winemaking resume includes stints at Newton and Peter Michael, during which time he regularly crossed paths with famed French “flying winemaker” Michel Rolland.

Although Morlet has since moved on from his consulting role with Bure, this 2013 bears his signature, delivering lots of gravelly soil character alongside densely concentrated Cabernet fruit and a healthy dollop of new French oak. The crest on the label is a slightly modified version (via the addition of a hockey stick) of a design once used by Bure’s great-grandfather, a Swiss-born horologist who made watches for the Russian Czar. Just 150 cases of the 2013 “Thirteen” were made, and it exudes a sense of luxury and precision craftsmanship.

In the glass, it’s an opaque purple leaning towards ink-black, with a deep, brooding character to the aromas and flavors. Aromas of black currant, cassis, mulberry, boysenberry, blackberry, dark chocolate, wet gravel, anise, cedar, and humid, leafy underbrush carry over to the dense, full-bodied palate, which shows surprising balance and tension for a wine of this size. The tannins are polished and firm, with a silty, sandy quality that give the wine grip and mineral savor on the palate. Right now, the wine needs air and time to show its best: Decant it at least an hour before serving at 60-65 in large Bordeaux stems, keeping the temperature on the cooler side to tame the intensity somewhat. Do NOT drink this wine at room temperature (72-78F); if necessary, put the wine in the refrigerator for 30-40 minutes or so to get to cellar temp or a touch lower before decanting. If the wine is served too warm, the aromas will not be in balance and the above tasting notes will not apply. It will age 15+ years with ease, likely peaking around 2025, and will show its best on a cold, icy day (see what I did there?) with something rich and warming alongside it. It isn’t just a ‘show’ wine for the critics—it’s one you’ll enjoy drinking with wine-loving friends. Cheers!
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Country
United States
Region
California
Sub-Region
United StatesNapa Valley—St. Helena
Soil
Sandy Loam & Gravel
Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon
Alcohol
14.8
OAK
New French Barriques
TEMP.
60
Glassware
Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2035
Decanting
One Hour
Pairing
Braised Beef Shanks

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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