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Vignoble des 2 Lunes, Pinot Noir “Périgée”
We’re all about elegant, evocative Pinot Noir, and when it sports a rock-bottom price—not typical for this expensive-to-grow variety—it generates lots of buzz around here. If it also hails from France, even better! And, if it completes the trifecta by having some age under its belt...well, that rarely happens. So imagine my surprise when this newfound bottle was parked on my table and the juice within was full of pure, Burgundy-esque fruit that proudly showcased its rich terroir.
We greedily enjoyed this light-on-its-feet, heavy-on-flavor Pinot Noir, without any desire to use our spittoons (it’s that good) and by the end of the tasting, I was determined to offer this, no matter the cost. Then, the price was revealed, and...well...the rest is obvious. This is one superb value and, upon learning more about Vignoble des 2 Lunes, a true-blue Certified Biodynamic estate, it made me want to book a ticket to Alsace so I could walk their vineyards and shake hands with the seventh-generation Buecher family (ironically, I later found out we were staying just a few minutes from their estate during my most recent voyage to Alsace). Now that I’ve serendipitously learned about this tiny biodynamic estate and their superior price-to-quality wines, I’ll be sure to make them ‘stop number one’ on my next trip. This is certainly one of the great red values of the year: Lovers of Burgundian, Willamette Valley, and German Pinot Noir—this is calling your name!
We greedily enjoyed this light-on-its-feet, heavy-on-flavor Pinot Noir, without any desire to use our spittoons (it’s that good) and by the end of the tasting, I was determined to offer this, no matter the cost. Then, the price was revealed, and...well...the rest is obvious. This is one superb value and, upon learning more about Vignoble des 2 Lunes, a true-blue Certified Biodynamic estate, it made me want to book a ticket to Alsace so I could walk their vineyards and shake hands with the seventh-generation Buecher family (ironically, I later found out we were staying just a few minutes from their estate during my most recent voyage to Alsace). Now that I’ve serendipitously learned about this tiny biodynamic estate and their superior price-to-quality wines, I’ll be sure to make them ‘stop number one’ on my next trip. This is certainly one of the great red values of the year: Lovers of Burgundian, Willamette Valley, and German Pinot Noir—this is calling your name!
The spindly, longitudinal appellation of Alsace, with the Vosges Mountains serving as its backbone, is divided into the Bas-Rhin (northern half) and Haut-Rhin (southern half). It’s in the latter, just west of Colmar, within the small commune of Walbach, where you’ll find the Buecher family farming 35 acres of all-natural, Demeter Certified Biodynamic vines. All this is made possible through their commitment to the vine—as noted on their website, “Our strength is our tireless hard work. It is due to this hard work that we are able to emphasize the flavors and finesse of our terroir which define our wines.”
Seven-plus generations of Buechers have operated Vignoble des 2 Lunes, but it was sisters of the new generation, Amelie and Cecile Buecher, who pushed heavily for biodynamics (the estate earned its certification in 2007). Since a large part of biodynamics is following the moon cycle, that’s where today’s “Périgée” earned its name (in English, perigee = the point when the moon and earth are closest). After harvesting their crop, grapes were shuttled to the winery in small bins and a native fermentation occurred in concrete vessels. The resulting wine was then gently transferred into a combination of stainless steel and concrete vessels for 12 months. The entire process is all natural and untouched, save a micro-dose of sulfur come bottling.
Vignoble de 2 Lunes’ 2012 “Périgée” shines a brilliant light ruby core moving out to a faint pink rim and it instantly shows the nobility of French Pinot Noir in the glass. You’ll receive a warm embrace of soft spice, high-toned florals, and delicate waves of fruit from a 2012 vintage that highlighted terroir: crushed raspberries, currants, boysenberry, black cherries, forest floor, Earl Grey tea, wet stones, licorice, and ground cloves. Is it village-level Burgundy? Trendy German Pinot? Willamette Valley in an “Old World” style? That’s the beauty of this bottle! The palate is ethereal and sprightly, yet holds impressive weight throughout, thanks to smooth-shouldered tannins and bright rushes of acidity. In year six, it’s showing perfectly and will continue drinking well over the next three-to-five years—when you do pull your corks, do so around 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Then, dust off your kitchen mitts, prepare Daniel Boulud’s take on chicken tagine, and open a few bottles of “Périgée” with a large group of friends. Laugh, drink, eat—that’s what food and wine should be about—and I guarantee this $25 experience can be just as memorable as a $250 bottle consumed at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
