Today’s ‘Magnum Monday’ wine generated a level of buzz around here that I haven’t seen in a very long time. This Grand Cru Champagne from the one-and-only Jean Vesselle enjoyed 16+ years of cellar aging before disgorgement, in magnum (1.5L) bottles, and yet it has so much poise and energy—even more than the much-younger 2007 we offered earlier this year.
When this massive bottle was presented to us, our eyes lit up and continued widening as the cork let out a soft sigh and its golden yellow nectar was released. Such extraordinarily pure aromas wafted out, stunning us into a silent stupor, and, as if all on the same brain wave, we immediately phoned the nearby diner and ordered generous amounts of fried chicken (the
de rigeur Champagne pairing of the moment, and for good reason!). Needless to say, work was put on hold that day. Put simply, some wines deserve more than a taste and a head nod, and Vesselle’s 2000
millésime, sourced entirely from the family’s vines in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, earned our full attention for the remainder of the afternoon. Along with Krug’s, this is one the most alluringly fresh bottles of the (oft-overlooked) 2000 vintage on the market. But, if you compare their prices—a magnum of 2000 Krug is $600—I’ll pick Jean Vesselle just about every single time. We received this special deal through the Vesselle family and their importer, so we are one of very few in the States offering this large-format luxury Champagne. Quantities are very low, so take advantage while you can!
[Note: Due to its large format, “Build-a-Case” is unavailable for this wine]
Anyone who loves great Champagne, and Pinot Noir, recognizes Bouzy as ground zero for the region’s most profound expressions of the variety, with a constellation of blue-chip producers that includes Pierre Paillard, Benoît Lahaye, and Paul Bara. The ‘Vesselle’ surname is attached to several different properties within Bouzy, which can get confusing, but Delphine and David Vesselle have distinguished themselves by reviving the saignée style of rosé, producing a distinctively dark sparkler that is about as close to ‘Burgundy with bubbles’ as one could hope to get. The family’s 15 hectares of vineyards are planted to 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, a ration which mirrors that of Bouzy as a whole. Across the entire Vesselle lineup, Pinot Noir is the star.
That said, “Prestige” Brut does contain 35% Chardonnay—it, too, sourced exclusively from Grand Cru sites in Bouzy that are farmed with the utmost attention to detail. The Vesselles are entrenched in viticulture, working tirelessly in the vineyard to adhere to organic (despite being uncertified) practices. They harvest their grapes by hand and the wine is fermented in stainless steel. The minimum aging law for vintage Champagne is three years, but they subject theirs to a minimum of eight. And then you have a special library release like today’s: Delphine and David Vesselle purposely held back this small batch of magnums longer—much longer: They aged them over 16 years on lees before disgorgement. That patience is both astounding and a virtue—there are layers upon layers of complexity here.
Vesselle’s powerful, Pinot Noir-driven wines are extremely popular restaurant wines, highly sought-after for their compatibility with food and exceptional value-for-dollar. Made only in select vintages, this is the kind of luxurious, layered vintage Champagne that the most decadent meals are made of. It’s what I like to call a “gastronomic” Champagne, meaning it will shine brightest during dinner as opposed to before it. In the glass, it reveals a deep yellow core with golden and silver reflection gleaming throughout. Opulent aromas of Meyer lemon, white cherries, dried pineapple, brioche, acacia flowers, yellow apple blossoms, quince, honey, apricot, crushed chalk, and baking spice unfold in layers and are all present on the lush, full-bodied palate. Yet it shows a bizarre level of freshness with no oxidation whatsoever (thanks to undisturbed aging and its large format) that is rarely seen from the 2000 vintage. It’s a Champagne with impact and serious length, and, somehow, is just getting started—I expect it will still be going strong 10-15 years from now. Do, however, drink one soon. It’s a must. Pull from the refrigerator, allow it to sit for 20-30 minutes, then serve in large-mouthed tulips or Burgundy stems (avoid tall, cylindrical flutes). If you let it come up to around 55 degrees, it will begin unleashing rich, savory complexities. Obviously, we went the fried chicken route, but if you’re not a fan, look to a hearty seafood dish—seared scallops in a creamy lemon sauce is a perfect alternative. Cheers!
