J. Charpentier’s Cuvée Pierre-Henri is a first-come, first-serve Champagne that shines a luminous light on Pinot Meunier—a variety more than capable of delivering opulence and precision. Though we’ve offered quite a few Charpentier wines over the last two years, we’ve never showcased this label, simply because it’s the first time we’ve had the opportunity: “Cuvée Pierre-Henri” is Charpentier’s rarest bottling, something that nobody else in America (to our knowledge) has in their possession.
But its severely limited availability isn’t what makes today’s offer so exciting—it’s what’s behind this rarefied label. A blend of the ’06/’07 vintages, it comes from Meunier vines no younger than 50 years old, with some creeping into “ancient” status; is 100% barrel-aged for one year; and spends a minimum of eight years on its lees in their cellar. The barriques lend depth and texture; the Meunier, plush fruit; and the extensive aging process provides an indelibly rich and hedonistic drinking experience. And now we come back to its rarity: We’ve spent two years trying to secure a batch, and, finally, after organically growing into somewhat of a brand ambassador for J. Charpentier, they unlocked their wine vault and gave us a microscopic portion of this
créme de la créme prestige cuvée. A mere eight cases to be exact. Only the tiniest fraction of you will be able to call this luxuriously rich and extraordinarily complex bottle yours—if you’re quick enough!
The rise of small “grower-producers” in Champagne has been one of the great wine stories of the last 20 years, with ‘new’ houses popping up seemingly out of nowhere. Of course they’re not new to the region, or to wine—they’re just new to us, having elected to stop selling their fruit to large négociants and instead bottle their own proprietary wines. The J. Charpentier estate, as currently constructed, represents the convergence of two Champagne wine families—Charpentier and Claisse, both with histories in the region going back generations—when Jacky Charpentier married Claudine Claisse in 1974 and two family farms became one. Based in the village of Villers-sous-Châtillon, about 12 kilometers west of Epernay in the Vallée de la Marne sub-zone, the Charpentier holdings now span 15 hectares and, more precisely, 38 plots across nine Marne villages. Jacky and Claudine’s son, Jean-Marc, has been at the winemaking controls since 2004, and the family employs organic methods in the vineyards unless an emergency arises—the classic lutte raisonnée (‘reasoned fight’) approach.
So what’s the big deal about Meunier? Briefly, it’s a black-skinned grape historically used for blending throughout Champagne. It ripens earlier and buds later than Pinot Noir in this chilly northern French climate and typically results in a fruitier, more accessible wine. This translates into powerful aromatics and brilliant freshness, which is why Champagne producers love using it for blending! However, Pinot Meunier is enjoying a renaissance and, with all-stars like Egly-Ouriet, Bérêche, and Jérôme Prévost producing 100% Meunier Champagnes, the excitement for this grape has skyrocketed. Take J. Charpentier: Cuvée Pierre Henri is their rare, top-of-the-line cuvée that pays homage to their ancestors who first began cultivating Meunier in this area many generations ago. Only the oldest vines (greater than 50 years old) throughout their holdings in the villages of Reuil and Châtillon-sur-Marne are selected and hand-harvested. For this bottling, it was a combination of the 2006 and 2007 vintages. In the winery, the Meunier fermented (without malolactic) and then aged in oak barrels for one year before bottling. The wine then aged for an incredible 8-9 years sur latte (horizontally, on lees) before disgorgement. It was lightly dosed with four grams of sugar per liter.
Cuvée Pierre-Henri pours a deep yellow color with a dazzling array of bright gold and silver reflections. It’s a tame, regal wine that has an incredibly fine mousse with slow yet consistent carbonated beads. The nose evokes all sorts of rich fruit and spice, starting with a seductive core of ripe quince, stewed yellow apples, Rainier cherries, and yellow plums that lead into vanilla, hazelnut, and brioche. The palate is sumptuous and ripe, showcasing a mellow array of yellow and white fruits, but it finishes on a high, superbly fresh note. And then, as the wine continues to open up and shed 10+ years of being caged, harmonious notes of honey, yellow flowers, pineapple core, buttered toast, caramel, and dried herbs flow out of the glass. It’s a wonderful experience that only continues blossoming as hour one and two pass by. It will withstand another 5-7 years in bottle, but there is no need to let it rest another moment—simply pour into wide-mouthed tulips and enjoy around 50-55 degrees. For one of the greatest pairings of all time, prepare Thomas Keller’s Fried Chicken recipe. Enjoy!
