Grenache is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world, and may be one of the most variable in terms of its expression: some are light-colored and cherry scented, others are richer and darker, with more sappy black fruit and licorice notes. Of course, some of the great Grenache-growing regions of the world don’t present it in “varietal” form but rather prize it for its versatility as a blending grape (Châteauneuf-du-Pape being the most famous of these), so it can be difficult to get a proper read sometimes.
I’ve always loved Italy’s Cannonau di Sardegna (the Grenache grape is called Cannonau in Sardinia) because it is a varietal expression of Grenache that, when done right, hews to the more cherry red, perfumed end of the Grenache spectrum, in the spirit of varietal benchmarks like Châteauneuf’s great Château Rayas. I say “done right” because fragrant and finessed is my preferred style of Grenache—if it is yours as well, Antonella Corda’s 2016 Cannonau di Sardegna is right up your alley. I’m going to be a little hyperbolic here: This is baby Rayas at a bargain-basement price. It’s game-changer and a must-try!
Lovers of Italian wine may recognize the name Antonio Argiolas, Antonella’s father, from whom she inherited the vineyards with which to start her own label in 2010. Argiolas—the man and the brand—is one of the best-known names in Sardinian wine, and the family’s home base in Serdiana, toward the southern end of the island, is one of the prime terroirs for the Cannonau grape. The climate is arid and Mediterranean, the soils are a mix of sand, silt, and pebbles over an old riverbed, and the sand component is a major point of interest here: As my winemaker/sommelier friends Richard and Carla Rza Betts assert, “…the prettiest of all Grenache comes from old vines grown in sandy soils.” They make a Grenache called “Sucette” from sandy soils in the Vine Vale region of Barossa, South Australia, and they model it after the king of the sand-grown-Grenache hill: Rayas. Antonella Corda’s 2016 channels both of those wines—which I’d say is high praise given its relatively modest price point.
And what do I/we mean by “pretty” Grenache? The more cherry-red, perfumy end of the varietal spectrum, where the grape takes on more of a Pinot Noir-like tone. As Grenache is typically grown in hot (and often dry) climates, it can skew much darker and sappier, with more viscosity, sweetness, and alcohol heat. Corda’s Cannonau doesn’t lack ripeness, but it also has real lift and perfume—something I found typical of Sardinian Cannonau in years past, but have seen less of lately. Whether it’s global warming, fashion, or both, a lot of modern Cannonau leans toward the richer side; as such, this one was a revelation for me.
Corda’s 40-hectare farm in Serdiana includes 15 hectares of vineyards and 12 of olive groves, all farmed organically (non-certified), and her 2016 Cannonau was vinified on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and aged in a mix of steel tank and used French oak barrels. It’s a rare example of a varietal Grenache with real tension to complement its velvet-smooth texture. In the glass, it’s a deep garnet red with pink and orange reflections, greeting you with aromas of wild strawberries, cherries, raspberries, rose petals, curacao orange peel, sandalwood, wild herbs, scrub-brush, and leather. Medium to medium-plus in body and boasting a soft, caressing texture, it is ready to enjoy now and over the next few years, its bright acid lending it a crisp and refreshing finish after a palate-coating glide across the palate. Its alcohol is well-integrated, but I’d still lean toward a cooler service temperature (60 degrees) to accentuate its sunny fruit and delicate spice-box notes. Southern Italian reds like this make me crave tomato-y baked pastas—lasagna, stuffed shells, baked ziti, etc. Pizza would work, too. I like the Mediterranean slant to the attached recipe, much as I do the Mediterranean deliciousness of this wine. I’ll be watching Antonella Corda with keen interest in the years to come, and you should too. Enjoy!
