Greece may not be your first thought when discussing the world’s greatest white wines, but experiencing the top expression of Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini will vault it towards the top of your list—just as it did mine when I visited years ago. One of my most memorable wine moments transpired deep inside a 400-year-old, catacomb-turned-hotel room beneath the surface of the crescent-shaped island of Santorini. The wine poured was a late-90s Assyrtiko from Domaine Sigalas—the most lauded producer of the appellation—and the sensory experience it provided was unforgettable.
Every time I bring a new vintage to my nose I’m reminded of everything that makes Santorini so breathtaking: sun-kissed fruit, volcanic soils, sea spray; all of it is beautifully blended into an intensely layered and wonderfully rich wine that leaves a sensational, lengthy finish. I loved the ‘17 so much I bought it months ago, before its official arrival to the States, because the amount of praise Sigalas is receiving is making this gem harder to obtain with each passing year (and prices keep rising too!). Seriously, this is one of the most distinct, high-quality white wines out there—this is a bucket list white wine you must try, and now’s your chance!
Surrounded by the electric blue waters of the Aegean Sea, Santorini’s striking black volcanic earth is the product of an ancient volcano whose explosion dwarfed that of Mount St. Helens by more than 100 times in magnitude. One of the largest seismic events in earth’s history, the eruption of Thera left behind hundreds of meters of volcanic ash and the current-day crescent-shaped caldera (crater) floating amidst the Aegean waters. This black volcanic terroir is one of a few major factors that define Assyrtiko’s incredibly unique flavor profile. Its smoky minerality, coupled with the lack of any groundwater on the island and its surrounding sea air, merge seamlessly to reveal a flavor profile that is totally inimitable. So how do the vines stay hydrated? Drop by drop, they soak up the condensation of mist that blows in from the sea, which creates the magnificent salinity in the wine.
Domaine Sigalas, for all its praise and notoriety, is relatively new—having only been founded in 1991 by Paris Sigalas, along with Christos Markozane and Yiannis Toundas. Still, Sigalas has maintained a working philosophy of quality over quantity. A pioneer of organic viticulture on the island, Paris also maintains incredibly low yields (15-30 hl per hectare) in his vineyards while continuing to subtly infuse technology. As is common practice in Santorini, Sigalas’ 60-year-old “
kouloura” vineyard features vines trained in the
shape of a bird’s nest (also referred to as “
Stefani”), with grapes growing in the center to provide protection from the harsh winds and relentless sun. After hand harvesting, this single-varietal Assyrtiko underwent an 80% ‘whole cluster’ fermentation and aged entirely in stainless steel for 5+ months before bottling.
Sigalas’ 2017 Assyrtiko exhibits a pale straw-yellow core with bright platinum reflections and slight green hues leading out to a clear rim. The explosive aromas offer up green peach, lime peel, pineapple core, green mango, salt-preserved lemon, and fresh sea spray, along with fragrant orange blossoms and crushed volcanic earth, bringing a slight white smoke-like note. The palate is wonderfully fresh and simultaneously very rich in texture with mouthwatering, thirst-quenching minerality. Brilliant lifts of acidity, a slight oiliness, and abundant vibrancy leaves this lingering for minutes after each sip. This wine will age beautifully and could become one of the most enchanting bottles in your cellar if you have the patience to keep a few back over the next 10+ years. If consuming now, decant a minimum of one hour and do not serve too cold; about 50-55 degrees is ideal. As the wine opens, its aromatic charm and rich textures emerge in great detail (even more so on day two). Since my memorable trip, the incredibly food- and budget-friendly Assyrtiko has become one of my favorite whites. With its fascinating ability to be equally delicious young or over a decade old, it’s hard to go wrong when you drink it. And, it’s versatile with food, channel Greece with this incredible Whole Fish Recipe. The roasted fish with lemon, oregano and feta cheese paired with this wine will transport you to the peaks of Santorini during sunset. Cheers!
