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Dominique Piron, Morgon “Côte du Py”

Beaujolais, France 2016 (750mL)
$25.00
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Dominique Piron, Morgon “Côte du Py”

There are millions of vineyards worldwide, and of those, the tiniest fraction have acquired such immense levels of fame that they’ve become synonymous with entire regions: “To-Kalon” in Napa Valley; “Montrachet” in Côte de Beaune; “Bussia in Barolo”; and yes, “Côte du Py” in the cru Beaujolais village of Morgon.
It is here, on the remnants of an ancient volcano, where special 400-million-year-old blue granite soils lend Côte du Py its special character and world-renowned fame—which is a perfect segue into today’s producer. Dominique Piron is a Burgundian treasure and his prized bottling from Côte du Py, the “founding terroir” of Beaujolais, has consistently emerged as the region’s top performer and easily its greatest value. When you combine a deeply rooted family tree—Piron can trace his first winemaking ancestor in Morgon back to 1590—with a truly legendary terroir, the results are nothing short of extraordinary. And then check the price! Decant a bottle or two now, stash it away for five years, or lay it down for the long haul (10, even 20 years!): Whatever you do, know that every single pull of the cork will cause your jaw to drop. Famed terroir, historic family, complex wine—this is one of Burgundy’s greatest values. If you cherish French wines in any capacity, this must join your collection. 
This stunning, age-worthy Beaujolais wasn’t created overnight: Many generations—Dominique represents the 14th—have studied this land, tended to its vines, and handcrafted wines from them. It’s because of this 430-year history in Morgon that you won’t find a sheet of instructions dangling out of anyone’s pockets at Domaine Dominique Piron; they don’t operate according to a formula. Instead, they adapt to the fluctuation of vintage, terroir, and vines. And in 2016, their 50+-year-old parcels on “Côte du Py” produced a small, but generously ripe, crop. After hand harvesting and sorting, the grapes were partially de-stemmed and sent into stainless steel tanks. Occasional punch-downs during an extended fermentation added on to this special site’s already-firm structure, and by intelligently mixing 30% neutral oak vessels into the aging process, they were able to achieve a brilliantly round, complex, and powerful Cru Beaujolais—it’s one for the ages! As their importer puts it, the domaine’s bottlings from Morgon are “the image of Dominique Piron.” 

Piron’s 2016 “Côte du Py” reveals a deep ruby core in the glass with magenta-pink hues radiating on the rim. Juicy plums, black cherries, huckleberry, and black raspberry powerfully erupt from the glass followed by endless waves of crushed granite, underbrush, rose petals, pepper, purple flowers, and subtle touches spice. The palate is classically Morgon, revealing grippy structure and power alongside supple fruit and minerality. It’s bold, concentrated, and so incredibly savory—but it's nowhere near its top performing level. Given the proper time, it will blossom into a superstar. This truly is one of the finest age-worthy Beaujolais wines on the market, especially so at $25, and with the 2016 vintage, Piron has reached levels I’ve never witnessed. As mentioned, consume a couple in the near future (after a 60 minute decant), but save the majority for years down the road. It will start showing its true colors in 2020, but won’t reach its absolute peak until 2025—if you have the strength of mind, anytime after that is just an added bonus. This “Côte du Py” is screaming for a classic dish so treat it to a traditionally paired coq au vin and enjoy to your heart’s content. Cheers! 
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Country
France
Region
Beaujolais
Sub-Region
FranceMorgon Cru
Soil
Blue Volcanic Granite
Farming
Lutte Raisonnée
Blend
Gamay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
30% Neutral French
TEMP.
60
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2030+
Decanting
1+ Hour
Pairing
Coq au Vin

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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