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Kellermann, “Filigreen Farm” Pinot Noir

Other, United States 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$30.00
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Kellermann, “Filigreen Farm” Pinot Noir

Kellermann? I didn’t know the wine. I looked left and right at my colleagues—they hadn’t heard of it, either. As we learned, it’s the kind of wine you get from someone who “knows a guy who knows a guy.” Bottom line: After tasting Kellermann’s biodynamic Pinot Noir from the “Filigreen Farm” vineyard in Mendocino, I’m betting on it becoming a household name.
The elegance and pure terroir expression in this bottle was outstanding; a seamless example of pure, gently handled Pinot Noir. I say this not to grandstand, but to ensure that you don’t miss this under-, or rather, off-the-radar, producer. Today’s bottle instantly put Kellerman on my short list of Anderson Valley favorites—they’re one of the most exciting new California producers I’ve encountered in quite a while. This level of purity and authenticity cannot be forged. You want traditional wine made in the spirit of old-school Burgundy? Kellermann has it: biodynamic grapes; subtle oak; minimal sulfur; and a machine-less environment from barrel to bottle. With only three barrels made, I wish we could’ve bought by the barrel instead of the case. At this point, is the irresistible price even worth mentioning? 
Kellermann, founded just four years ago, is run by husband-wife team Matt and Julie Kellerman. After pinging across the United States, they finally landed in Russian River Valley and, on a wing and a prayer, began climbing the winemaking ladder. From harvest intern, to Cellar Master, to Assistant Winemaker, Matt worked his way up and in 2014 was confident in his abilities to start crafting his very own wine. His philosophy is “...to create a wine that showcases the land and vineyard in which it grew. A terroir driven wine.” Knowing that, “Filigreen Farm” couldn’t have been a better match for them. Originally founded in the late ‘80s as a biodynamic apple orchard, it has since grown to include cherries, olive trees, peaches, blueberries, and, of course, this Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyard, planted to Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. 

Though located about 60 miles northwest of their home, they are adamant about tracking the vines’ development throughout the year and, come harvest in 2016, Matt and Julie handpicked the 2400 pounds of grapes themselves. In the winery, the grapes naturally fermented (15% whole cluster), in stainless steel tanks and once complete, the resulting wine was transferred via gravity into French oak, 25% new, for 15 months. It was then bottled, also via gravity, unfined and unfiltered, with a trace amount of sulfur.

Kellermann’s 2016 “Filigreen Farm” Pinot Noir reveals a dazzling ruby core with flashes of magenta that move out to a soft pink rim. Expect the nose to erupt with black cherry blossoms, dried strawberries, red apple skin, pomegranate, black tea, rose stems, violets, forest floor, crushed stones, damp leaves, and black raspberry, with underlying notes of baking spice. It’s elegant and impressively ripe on the palate, showing off a medium-plus body, but always remaining ‘light on its feet.’ It’s a soulful take on California Pinot, with incredible tension and mineral verve on the palate. This is such a pitch-perfect example of Anderson Valley: supple fruit, impactful earthiness, and a long-lived savory palate full of herbs and crushed rock minerality. This will stun drinkers of California Pinot while also pleasing the most refined Burgundy lovers; it’s a pleaser of all walks of life. After a quick 30 minute decant (optional), simply serve in large Burgundy stems just above cellar temperature. It will match with many dishes, so there’s no wrong answer here, but I went with a traditional beef tenderloin with sautéed mushrooms. Simple to make, delicious to eat. Cheers!
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United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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