“Héritage du Penlois” didn't last long, but there's still a handful of their beautiful Cru Beaujolais stashed away in our warehouse. Same producer, same blockbuster vintage, same insane value—but it's MORGON! Last year's story below:
One thing I always try to do when I’m traveling is to ask local producers which wines they drink when they’re not drinking their own. I can’t think of a better way to unearth exciting new finds, and it’s how I found today’s wine and its maker, Sébastien Besson. The SommSelect crew was in Villé-Morgon, in Beaujolais, eating coq au vin and drinking great bottles at the local wine bar/hotel, Le Bacchus, where an all-star lineup of local producers had congregated. Among them was Alex Foillard, son of the legendary Jean, with whom I commiserated and asked my time-tested question: Whose wines should we check out?
He walked away and returned with the incredibly kind and humble Sébastien Besson; soon after, we all headed to a huge party in the nearby village of Régnié. It was an unforgettable night, populated with the next generation of great Cru Beaujolais producers. I returned the following month and spent some time with Sébastien to learn more about his family’s Domaine du Penlois. I loved all the wines across the board. They are truly authentic, old-school Beaujolais, and we excitedly arranged to import today’s 2014 Morgon directly. A great value to begin with and even more of a steal thanks to our direct-import relationship, this is simply the best-value Morgon I’ve ever tasted—and from a vintage, 2014, that remains one of my favorites of the modern era. Penlois’ “Terres Rouges” is an amazingly soft, perfectly integrated, and smoothly structured red that reminds you, emphatically, that Beaujolais is part of Burgundy! It’s a diamond in the rough at this insanely low price point, and we’re overjoyed to extend its pleasures to you. I love it when a plan comes together, and I can’t think of a better red to stockpile for the holiday season ahead.
The Bessons are no novices when it comes to Beaujolais: It all started when patriarch Benoît Besson arrived in the small hamlet of Lancie (located roughly between Morgon and Fleurie) during the advent of the Roaring Twenties, where his brother Paul was already tending family-owned vines. It was here in Lancie where Benoît spearheaded the cultivation of Chardonnay, a tradition that survived and still thrives to this day. Today, however, we’re focusing on the Beaujolais’ flagship grape: Gamay. After four generations of handing off this grape growing and winemaking enterprise father to son, the Bessons are now nearing 30 hectares of vines most notably spread throughout the crus of Morgon, Juliénas, and Moulin-à-Vent. Now coming up on the century mark, Domaine du Penlois is a staple of traditional Burgundy—and their wines reflect that to their very core.
Domaine du Penlois’ “Terres Rouges” is a clear standout for top value in Morgon: It is sourced from their oldest plots around the village, with low-yielding vines between 30-60 years old that are buried in a mixture of soils, including granite and iron-rich clay. The Bessons farm with lutte raisonnée (“reasoned struggle”) principles and harvest is always carried out by hand. The old-vine Gamay is transported to their winery in small baskets and fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks over the course of two weeks. The wine is then racked and sent to age in a combination of stainless steel and large, neutral barrels.
This is delicious Morgon further amplified by its superbly low price, but it’s also a spot-on classic representation of this cru village. The wine shines an ultra-bright ruby transitioning to soft pink reflections out on its edges. The nose is highly intense, revealing deep and brooding aromas of crushed black raspberry, blueberries, freshly picked strawberries, violets, red plums, pomegranate, graphite, damp rocks, turned earth, underbrush, and wild herbs to unabashedly rush forward and persist, even long after the wine has been open. The medium-bodied palate is silky, soft, and wonderfully fresh with mouthwatering acidity and very fine tannins. Fruits are pure and brambly on the finish alongside juicy currants and beautiful minerality and savor. Crushed rocks, earth, damp underbrush—it’s all here! There is also impressive structure that slowly builds from start to finish, letting us know this will last another 5-7 years—such an amazing feat for the price. Buy without abandon in order to load up your cellar and distribute to friends and family (while keeping a case for yourself). Just save a couple bottles for a comforting dinner—this
Zuni roasted chicken recipe will light up the room, it is one of our all-time favorites with Cru Beaujolais. Cheers!
