Sommeliers-in-training, at any level, always keep a handful of classic, region-defining producers committed to memory. Examples include Hermitage from Chave and Chapoutier; Pomerol from Pétrus and Lafleur; Bandol from Tempier and Pradeaux; and Savennières from Nicolas Joly and Domaine aux Moines. Obviously, this list is incomplete, but my point is this: These producers are champions of their regions, crafting inimitable wines from unique terroirs. These are the benchmarks.
Domaine aux Moines is undoubtedly in this elite cadre, with a library full of back-vintage Chenin Blancs that demonstrate just how age-worthy this variety can be. Today’s 1999 Savennières Roche-aux-Moines comes directly from their deep, dark cellars to you, ready to unveil its myriad charms. This bone-dry Chenin shines a brilliant yellow-gold and releases aromatics that could only come from the schist and volcanic soils of Savennières. It epitomizes “site specificity” and is something all white wine lovers should experience. But the greatest part of all is the shocking price: Domaine aux Moines—despite its stellar track record, despite being a sommelier cult favorite, despite keeping their handcrafted production absurdly low—has maintained incredibly humble prices across the board. For $35, you can experience all this, and you can take up to a case to boot while supplies last. It’s a long-aged, still-can-age longer piece of white wine brilliance that simply must not be missed!
Roche-aux-Moines is a single-vineyard sub-appellation of the Savennières AOC that nearly borders Nicolas Joly’s famous Coulée de Serrant monopole. This tiny (only 60 planted acres) and “sacred” appellation has been under vine since the monks of the Abbey of Saint-Nicolas d'Angers broke ground in 1130. The estate of current-day Domaine aux Moines was first built in 1768 and after passing through several hands throughout the centuries, Madame Monique Laroche and her husband purchased it outright in 1981. Today, it is still run by Monique, along with her daughter Tessa, who joined the team in 1990.
Domaine aux Moines sits at the highest point in Roche-aux-Moines and therefore is the literal standout of the appellation. With a high presence of schistous and volcanic soils, their vineyard real estate is considered some of the appellation’s best. With only eight hectares of vines planted directly around the estate, the Laroches can carefully tend to their organic grapes at any time, and they need the attention! A tough climate, coupled with some parcels that are pushing past 80 years old, means yields here can be very low: 30hl/ha ( 3000 liters of wine made from 2.47 acres) is common, but in some years it can drop to the teens—that’s nearing the extreme levels of d’Yquem! When harvest eventually comes around, picking ripe, pristine grapes is key for this mother-daughter team. They make several passes through their parcels, typically four to five, before they are satisfied with the crop. In the winery, everything is super-traditional, with a hands-off, laissez-faire approach. Fermentation occurs naturally, on indigenous yeasts, and no sulphur is added afterwards. Aging occurs in stainless steel tanks, as well as a combination of new (not enough to impart oaky flavors) and used barrels of various sizes. While some wine is initially released the year after, the Laroches have kept an impressive amount of back stock for long aging in their cellars. Because of this shrewd patience, we are able to offer today’s ‘99—released from their possession earlier this year.
Domaine aux Moines’ 1999 displays a deep yellow-gold with copper reflections leading out to a soft yellow rim. The nose is wonderfully seductive and continues shedding its shell as oxygen hits it—we tracked our bottle over 12 hours, and it kept improving! At first, you’ll pick up dried apricots, white mushroom, bruised yellow apples and pears, beeswax and honey, but as time progresses, the wine enlivens, emerging with dried citrus peel, salted lemon, pineapple, petrol, and an intoxicating array of white and yellow flowers. The palate is bone-dry, medium-full, and full of slow-building acidity that lingers through the finish. This is fully-developed Chenin with hints of freshness popping in along the way. The mature yellow fruits have a waxy profile to them, and along with the concentration, this shows how blindingly bright and intense this wine must’ve been in its youth. Though there is still life in this mesmerizing Savennières, I would recommend pulling the cork over the next year or two because it is in a perfectly mature position as is. Decant (optional) for 30+ minutes and pour around 55 degrees in all-purpose white stems. Like we did, monitor its evolution over several hours and well into the following day! Follow the attached recipe to create an oven-baked halibut basking in a mushroom cream sauce and revel in the magic of a nearly 20-year-old, dry Chenin Blanc pairing. Cheers!
