The rise of small “grower-producers” in Champagne has been one of the great wine stories of the last 20 years, with ‘new’ houses popping up seemingly out of nowhere with spectacular, handmade wines. Of course they’re not new to the region, or to wine—they’re just new to us, having elected to stop selling their fruit to large négociants and instead bottle their own proprietary wines.

The J. Charpentier estate, as currently constructed, represents the convergence of two Champagne wine families—Charpentier and Claisse, both with histories in the region going back generations—when Jacky Charpentier married Claudine Claisse in 1974 and two family farms became one. Based in the village of Villers-sous-Châtillon, about 12 kilometers west of Epernay in the Vallée de la Marne subzone, the Charpentier holdings now span 15 hectares and, more precisely, 38 plots across nine Marne villages. Jacky and Claudine’s son, Jean-Marc, has been at the winemaking controls since 2004, and the family employs organic methods in the vineyards unless an emergency arises—the classic lutte raisonnée (‘reasoned fight’) approach. 

The NV Brut “Tradition” is almost entirely Pinot Meunier with a small portion of Pinot Noir sourced throughout all of their vineyards in the Marne. Grapes are hand picked and fermentation, including malolactic, occurs in a mixture of stainless steel tanks, followed by the blending of two vintages to create this ‘non-vintage’ cuvée (more aptly called ‘multi-vintage’). After approximately 24 months of aging on its lees (in bottle), the wine is disgorged and dosed with 11 grams of sugar per liter, which lends perfect balance to the palate.

In the glass, Charpentier’s current-release Brut “Tradition” radiates a straw yellow core with platinum reflections moving out to a clear rim. On first pour, the mousse is abundantly energetic and full, with a sweet core of stone, citrus, even tropical fruits. This is a bright and highly aromatic Champagne that displays white flowers, honeysuckle, pineapple core, apricots, mango peel, lemon blossoms, just-cut red and green apples, white pear, tangerine, crushed chalk, oyster shells, and river stones. The refreshing palate confirms an array of sun-kissed citrus fruits alongside steely minerality and a hint of tropicality. It’s a delicious sparkler that finishes soft and smooth—due to its suppleness, ripe fruit, and youthful tension, this is a drink-now Champagne. Don’t hesitate to open a few bottles within the first few weeks of it arriving. It’s hard to keep this out of your sight! Serve in all-purpose white stems around 50 degrees and enjoy your bottles within a couple years for optimal freshness. Charpentier’s “Tradition” can pair with just about anything, but after enjoying the first glass, I thought of something simple and savory: Buy some chicken sausage, red apples and onions, and sauté it all on the stove. It’s that easy!