A cynic might encounter today’s wine on a restaurant list and think it an example of the sommelier trying to show off—the wine’s obscurity all but guaranteeing a lengthy soliloquy from said sommelier. I’ve got two words for that: Harsh, dude! Yes, some wines on wine lists are almost exclusively purchased by other sommeliers, and there are more than a few “weird for weird’s sake” wine lists out there, but, nine times out of 10, taking a flyer on a wine like this Teran from Slovenia pays massive dividends.
Listen, I know: trusting is hard. But if this were a tableside interaction instead of an email offer, I have no doubt that Štoka Teran would win me your trust. Why? Because it’s a wine which, despite what some experts say, exhibits true soil character. Because it’s a wine from one of those deeply historic yet somehow still-unknown regions the most devoted wine geeks cherish (in this case, Slovenia). And finally, because it is undeniably delicious, easy to drink, and not merely distinctive but undeniably well-made. It’s a revelation at $25. When Ian Cauble and I tasted this 2016 we weren’t just impressed but also a little giddy—wines like this make the job infinitely more interesting, because suddenly there’s another grape, and terroir, to master. What else can I say? It’s a must-have.
The first Teran I ever tasted, many years ago, was from the Friulian side of the border and was rather severe, with acid and tannin to spare. It’s a variety that skews tangy and crisp, with a deep, iodine-like minerality I often find in Cru Beaujolais wines. Štoka’s 2016, aged about a year in large, used Slavonian oak barrels, is distinguished by an appealing lack of sharp edges and dark, wild berry/pomegranate fruit character. It has tremendous vibrancy and aromatic complexity, all presented in a bright, electric, medium-bodied package. Like Cru Beaujolais, it’s substantial but also joyfully easy to drink. It’s also one of those reds that looks like a monolith—a dense, nearly opaque ruby-black hue moving to garnet at the rim—but doesn’t drink like one. Aromas of black cherry, cranberry, wet soil, iodine, paprika, and grilled meat carry over to the palate, which offers up a great push-pull of sweet and savory sensations. It has the structure to age 5+ years but it makes a perfect burger wine right now: Decant it 30 minutes before service in Bordeaux stems alongside something medium-rare or a little ‘bloodier’ still. They were made for each other. Don’t miss it!