Nothing destroys a beautiful vineyard vista like the sight of someone in a ‘hazmat’ suit, spraying chemicals between the rows. It’s usually the herbicide Roundup being sprayed, and it’s not just wine grapes that feel the effects—herbicides have found their way into every food crop imaginable and are probable carcinogens.
Today’s wine, produced by Carlo and Dante Mondavi’s RAEN Winery and bottled under the imprimatur of The Monarch Challenge, is a rosé with an important distinction: It is the first wine in a series whose proceeds fund a new initiative to eliminate herbicides in vineyards (and other farm applications). Founded by the Mondavis and other like-minded growers, winemakers, and scientists, The Monarch Challenge is named for the Monarch butterfly, whose numbers have diminished by 90%, said to be due to the introduction of Roundup in 1974. It may go without saying that The Monarch Challenge is wholeheartedly embraced by all of us at SommSelect, and we’re proud to participate in the effort by offering this wine to our audience: Chemicals like Roundup’s glyphosate contaminate the food and liquids we drink, endanger pollinating insects, and denigrate subsoils and rivers. In short, glyphosate needs to go, and The Monarch Challenge is devoted to creating workable alternatives and educating those who use them about the harm it causes. Help us help them by drinking some of this delicious rosé—all net proceeds go to the initiative.
As most SommSelect subscribers are likely aware, we have followed RAEN since its inaugural vintage a few years ago, not just because Carlo and Dante Mondavi are friends but because the Sonoma Coast vineyards they’ve assembled—and the wines they’ve produced—have established RAEN as a Pinot Noir player to be reckoned with. What is also clear is that the Mondavi brothers are not just talking the sustainability talk (RAEN stands for ‘Research in Agriculture and Enology Naturally’) but walking the walk—not only in their own practices but, through
The Monarch Challenge, their efforts to educate others on the dangers of chemical farming.
“First, I want to note that there are very few food crops that escape the treatment of herbicides these days,” says Carlo Mondavi. “From corn and soy to wheat just before harvest, almonds, apples, lettuce, lemons…the list goes on. Ideally none of these crops would be sprayed and the goal [of the Monarch Challenge] is to change what we do and elevate Napa and Sonoma as leaders in the global farming community.”
What’s also notable about The Monarch Challenge is that it makes a concerted effort not to be preachy—California’s farming costs are already exorbitant compared to those of other wine-producing regions of the world; Carlo is cognizant of the cost savings inherent in chemical farming and the reluctance to change because of it. The success of The Monarch Challenge will be determined largely by its ability to demonstrate that alternatives are not merely beneficial to public health but financially viable. “I don’t want anyone telling me what I can and can’t do with my land and I sure as hell don’t want to tell other people what to do with theirs,” Carlo continues. “But once people know what these herbicides have been linked to, they will not only walk away motivated to change but also to spread the word. It all starts with education. Teaching farmers why we need to change and actually giving them tools to change is what the funds raised from this bottle will go towards.”
And the wine? Well, it’d be hard to find a better time of year to have some of this 2017 on hand. It is an assemblage of Sangiovese from Mendocino; Grenache Blanc from Russian River; and Pinot Noir from RAEN’s Occidental vineyard, made in a fresh, lively ‘direct-press’ style (as opposed to
saignée, where some juice is ‘bled off’ at the start of a red wine fermentation). It is crisp, nervy, and substantially textured at the same time, designed for immediate consumption at 45-50 degrees alongside the best—and, hopefully, organically farmed—summer produce from your local farmer’s market. Now is the perfect time to assemble a classic
panzanella and this wine is the ideal partner. Nothing like drinking well and doing good at the same time! Cheers!