First, a correction: Because Domaine Michel Sarrazin & Fils is such a stalwart of Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise—especially the Givry AOC—I have mistakenly suggested, in past Sarrazin offers, that their wine from Maranges is part of their Côte Chalonnaise lineup. As Burgundy experts are aware, Maranges is the appellation at the very southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, right where it gives way to the Côte Chalonnaise—a subtle but important distinction for purists and one I shouldn’t have missed.
So, with that mea culpa out of the way, let me get right to the point: There’s no mistaking how good this 2016 Maranges is—especially at this insanely modest price. It’s a testament not just to the vintage but to the choice vineyard holdings and serious talent of brothers Guy and Jean-Yves Sarrazin, who’ve run their small family domaine since the 1990s. There’s a reason we’ve offered so many wines from this estate: They consistently deliver some of the best value-for-dollar in ALL of Burgundy. Regardless of appellation, these guys routinely transcend what anyone thinks is possible. If Sarrazin is not yet one of your ‘pet’ producers, it should be—and this ’16 is all the convincing you’ll need.
Because the term “hidden gem” is so overused, I’m loathe to deploy it here—except that Sarrazin is one of the best examples of a hidden gem one could cite. Perched at about 1,000 feet elevation in the tiny hamlet of Jamblès, Sarrazin’s ‘home’ appellation is Givry but their 35 hectares of vineyards span a variety of Chalonnaise—and Beaune!—AOCs, including Rully, Mercurey, and Maranges. All of their farming is carried out according to lutte raisonnée (“reasoned struggle”) principles; this means that herbicides, pesticides, and any other non-organic inputs are prohibited except in emergencies.
Maranges, just south of Santenay, is unique in that most of its vineyards, including its Premier Crus, skew south-southwest in aspect; this is a departure from the Côte de Beaune norm, although Maranges is, of course, geologically consistent with its neighbors. The Sarrazin holdings in Maranges are in two contiguous sites, “Sur la Rigole” and “Sur la Verpillere,” in the village of Cheilly-lès-Maranges: they are the two southeastern-most sites in the AOC and have a southeasterly exposition, with vines averaging 30 years of age rooted in pebbly limestone and clay. The Sarrazins hand-harvest all fruit from their two hectares of vines in Maranges and ferment it on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel; aging is carried out in François Fréres oak barriques (50% new) for 12 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Typically, wines from Maranges and Santenay fall into the lighter end of the red Burgundy spectrum, but this 2016—at least in part thanks to the vintage—shows some serious depth. In the glass, it’s a deep, dark ruby moving to pink and magenta at the rim, with a well-concentrated nose of black and red raspberries, red currant, cranberry, damp roses and violets, crushed stones, underbrush, and a hint of licorice. It’s juicy and rather plush, but with plenty of freshness lending backbone and lift. Leaning towards medium-plus in body and already drinking nicely after about 30 minutes in a decanter, it will unquestionably improve over the next 5-7 years—not bad at all for such a modestly priced wine! Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems with your go-to “country French” preparation—coq au vin, steak frites, etc.—and celebrate what is surely one of your shrewdest purchases of the year. Cheers!