La Dame de Montrose is a ‘second label’ Bordeaux in the way LeBron James, Jr. is the son of an NBA player: expectations are extra high in some cases, and while LeBron, Jr. is still a kid, the 2011 “La Dame” is a confident and accomplished adult.
Although the ratio of Merlot to Cabernet Sauvignon in La Dame is roughly opposite that of Montrose’s ‘first’ wine, the familial resemblance is unmistakable: This is dark-robed, firmly structured Left Bank Bordeaux through and through, a wine of real profundity at a relatively mundane price. Long touted as a “super second” because it is a Second Growth Bordeaux
cru classé (“classified growth”) that often performs like a First, Montrose truly sits are the very top of the Bordeaux quality pyramid. When you’re dealing with an estate of this consequence, it should be no surprise that its second label feels as complex and carefully crafted as its
grand vin, which will cost you twice as much. We were more than satisfied with this 2011, which is showing great potential for long aging—a shrewd purchase, to say the least, for any thoughtful collector.
Château Montrose derives its name from the flowering heather that turns its hillsides rose-pink (thus the name mont rose). Situated at the southeastern end of Saint-Estèphe, less than 10 miles from Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac, Montrose gazes over the Gironde River on an elevated outcropping of gravel. This situation, featuring black sand over a clay and marl subsoil, offers the textbook soil composition of the appellation; Montrose’s vineyards are planted to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, with vines averaging 40 years of age.
The estate was first planted in 1815 by Etienne Théodore Dumoulin. Forty years later, the relatively young château was granted Second-Growth status in the 1855 official classification. When Etienne passed away in 1861, he left his heirs an estate of 95 hectares, which comprises its current size today—a rarity. In 1866, the estate was purchased by Mathieu Dollfus, a dynamic proprietor who reorganized and modernized the facilities and offered housing, free healthcare and profit-sharing to his staff. The property was then purchased in 1896 by the Charmolüe family, who ushered the grand estate into the 21st century. Under their passionate guidance, the estate took its place as one of the greatest super-seconds of the Left Bank.
In 2006, brothers Martin and Thomas Bouygues acted on a family dream and purchased the estate. Under their guidance, the property has been lovingly restored with total historic accuracy and the facilities have been completely updated. The brothers have also installed a geothermal system and rooftop solar panels, which has vastly reduced the estate’s carbon footprint.
In 2011, Montrose’s grand vin was comprised of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 12% Cabernet France and 3% Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 60% new French oak. By contrast, La Dame de Montrose was 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 12 months in 30% new barrels. The vintage was beset by every climate-driven challenge in the book, and was sandwiched between two exceptional Bordeaux vintages to boot, so 2011 wines have tended to be overlooked by the press and collectors. But some quick research shows, the 2011s are being considered anew and are coming on strong in the court of public opinion. There are some great opportunities out there for savvy buyers and this edition of “La Dame” is most certainly one of them: While it is silkier and more approachable than the ’11 grand vin, the wine in no way lacks for mineral depth and backbone. And while the Cabernet component is reduced, its character still shines through clearly, lending the wine more than a passing resemblance to its big brother.
In the glass, La Dame 2011 displays a dark ruby core with garnet reflections at the rim. Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, and black currant are followed by graphite, cigar tobacco, wet clay, baking spices, leather, and dried violets and herbs. These sensations carry through to the firmly (but not prohibitively) tannic palate, which is nearing full-bodied. Even with a few years of bottle age this wine still feels youthful and it benefits greatly from extended time open. If you are enjoying a bottle now, splash it into a decanter about an hour before serving at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems. There’s still 15+ years of graceful evolution ahead of this wine should you choose, like I am, to hold some. Its dark, savory character had me thinking longingly of the char marks on a grilled ribeye, which would make a perfect companion. It’ll be hard to resist the urge to pat yourself on the back after opening one of these beauties. Cheers!
