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Domaine Marius Delarche, Pernand-Vergelesses “Les Boutières” Vieilles Vignes

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune, France 2016 (750mL)
$34.00
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Domaine Marius Delarche, Pernand-Vergelesses “Les Boutières” Vieilles Vignes

It is no longer sufficient to talk about Pernand-Vergelesses as the “off-the-beaten-track” Burgundy appellation in the shadow of Corton. As today’s wine so emphatically demonstrates, Pernand-Vergelesses can more than hold its own against the best of the Côte de Beaune, especially as interpreted by Domaine Marius Delarche.
I can think of few producers anywhere in Burgundy who deliver as much quality-for-price as Delarche, with today’s “Les Boutières” undoubtedly topping the list: The power, complexity, and texture of this 2016, a worthy successor to their epic 2015, is simply extraordinary at this price. It easily ranks among the very best red Burgundy values we’ll offer all year—or any year—and I’d go as far as to say there are some producers of Grand Cru Corton who’d be more than happy to have this wine in their (exponentially more expensive) bottle. Established subscribers know and trust Delarche, because they’ve earned it, for reds and whites alike. Stock up on as much of this wine as you can afford—it will not let you down, and it’s built to last!
Domaine Marius Delarche was originally established in the mid-1900s and, since then, the torch has been passed three times, from father to son, in classic Burgundian fashion. For the past decade, Etienne Delarche has been at the helm and his winemaking has turned many heads, as he has been able to retain the original charm and artisanal style that his forefathers laid down. Although the family makes a wide range of wines, their “Les Boutières” is by far the most impressive when considering price-to-quality ratio. The vineyard is yet another quirk of Burgundy’s hierarchy, classified as ‘village-level’ despite bordering the Premier Crus “Vergelesses” (arguably the most important site in the appellation) and “Les Fichots.” 

The soils of “Les Boutières” are rich in clay-limestone with traces of flint. This vielles vignes (old vines) bottling is hand-harvested from vines no less than 70 years old and, despite not being certified, the family makes every effort to farm organically. The grapes are 100% destemmed and fermentation is initiated by indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks with a once-daily punch-down (the re-introduction of skins to juice by ‘punching-down’ the ‘cap’ of skins that forms atop a vat of fermenting wine). The wine is then transferred into wood vessels, and other than being exposed to 10% new French oak, the entirety of the wine rests in old barrels for 12 months. It is then bottled for the market unfined and unfiltered. 

While 2016 was a more difficult (and, as a result, smaller) vintage than ’15, our experience has been overwhelmingly positive. The 2016 “Les Boutières” is a prime example: It is deeply concentrated, though marginally less so than ’15—and, arguably, better for it. There’s a terrific balance of depth and nerve in the ’16 edition, making it delicious to drink now but clearly capable of aging as well. In the glass, it shows a dark, nearly opaque ruby core moving to pink and magenta at the rim, with assertive aromas of black and red cherry, strawberry, blood orange, black tea, forest floor, cracked pepper and an assortment of wildflowers. Medium-plus in body and well-structured, it shows more power and persistence than anyone would think possible at this price point. It is truly impressive, and should age 10-15 years with ease if kept well. If enjoying a bottle now, decant it about an hour before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems and pair it with some juicy, pan-seared duck breasts. This wine is the real deal. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy / Côte de Beaune
Sub-Region
FrancePernand-Vergelesses
Soil
Limestone & Clay
Farming
Non-Certified Organic
Blend
Pinot Noir 100%
Alcohol
13.5
OAK
10% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2030+
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Pan-Seared Duck Breasts

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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