When I use the word “cult” to describe Etienne Bécheras’ jaw-dropping Crozes-Hermitage, it is particularly apropos. This is an exceptional—and exceptionally rare—wine! Bécheras bottles less than 100 cases of Crozes-Hermitage by hand each year, and until recently, it only entered the US in suitcases of in-the-know sommeliers and collectors.
Even ardent Northern Rhône enthusiasts might know this property only by reputation because, frankly, there’s not much else to go on! Bécheras never submits his wines for magazine reviews, most are sold directly to Michelin-rated restaurants in France—and, historically, anyone wishing to acquire even one bottle for home consumption had to go knock on Etienne’s front door! The real kicker here is that, despite the ancient vines, legendary terroir, and hysteria, Bécheras insists on blue-collar pricing for his wines. So, especially in this monumental 2015 vintage, I strongly suggest you seize this one-time opportunity to stock your cellar with a rare, best-in-class Northern Rhône beauty. While it costs hardly more than a humble Cotes du Rhône, this bottle will improve and flourish for decades to come. There are few “sure things” in wine, but trust that 2015 Bécheras Crozes is a brilliant, rock-solid investment.
Based on the purity and beauty of Bécheras’ exquisite reds, one would not be faulted for imagining that the man, himself, would possess an aristocratic air. But in fact, he’s no delicate flower; no, Bécheras is an absolute beast who could easily pass for a Marvel supervillain in any of this summer’s blockbusters. Bécheras visited Northern California recently in a delegation of esteemed producers of artisan Bordeaux and Rhône wines. In a roomful of smart blazers and industry chatter, Bécheras stuck out with his shaved head, military-grade agricultural attire, enormous biceps, and a handshake that could collapse a fire extinguisher. He is not a “wine professional.” He is a farmer.
Bécheras’ property is not a typical vineyard/cellar/tasting room operation. It is an actual polycultural farm overlooking the western bank of the Rhône River. He commercially farms a few acres of organic apricot and cherry trees. A few more acres are dedicated to livestock which produce meat, cheese, and milk for his family. A large stand of ash and acacia trees nurture a bounty of wild mushrooms and truffles while offering a sustainable source of firewood and construction materials. Ultimately, it feels as if his three-ish hectares of grape vines are only one small component of his farmstead—not the centerpiece. Still, it would be a grave mistake to overlook the magic happening at this rustic property.
Bécheras’ family has been farming the ancient terraces of these same limestone and granite hillsides for five generations. His vineyards are so steep and delicate that no machinery is used in farming. All work is done slowly and by hand. Grapes are harvested by Bécheras and his family before destemming and gentle, wild fermentation in enamel-lined concrete tanks. Next, the Crozes-Hermitage rests in an enormous, 600-liter French oak cask for a year, or more. Thereafter, the wines are left to rest in bottle until Etienne feels they are ready for release. Sometimes that’s 18 months, but with this year’s epic 2015, it was considerably longer. One sip of this extraordinary wine confirms a little extra wait was worth it!
Becheras’ 2015 Crozes-Hermitage has an opaque purple core moving to a dark garnet rim. A fistful of boysenberries and dark cherries meet roasted meats, coffee beans and violet blossoms—all of which sits on a firm foundation of limestone-granite minerality. For me, the wine’s minerality and layered architecture is what puts it heads above most of its peers in Crozes-Hermitage; there’s a sense of depth and completeness here that defies this bottle’s truly modest price tag. It’s always what tells me this bottle will improve for many, many years. Each element of the wine promises to only become more integrated over the decades, so, I encourage you to follow my lead and put away 6-12 bottles in your cellar as a wise investment. If you choose to unleash this beast soon, please decant for one hour and serve at 60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. This bottle practically begs for rack of lamb so please oblige!
