In terms of value-for-dollar, we increasingly see German Pinot Noir creeping up to the top of our list. At today’s price point, it is rare to find real character and authenticity, as Pinot Noir is an expensive and difficult grape to grow—but Weingut Gutzler, headquartered in Germany’s Rheinhessen region, shows that it’s possible with this delicious 2015.
For Pinot Noir, the Rheinhessen has no worldwide acclaim or pre-established fame (overall, the region is only 29% planted to red varieties), but if we keep seeing wines like this one—hardly the first German Pinot we’ve offered here, and certainly not the last—that is sure to change. Blessed with a similar climate, clay-limestone soils, and Burgundian winemaking methods that have been studied for generations, Gutzler delivers the Pinot Noir goods: And while it is often tempting to describe and praise Pinot Noir wines based on how they compare to red Burgundy, the German styles—as exemplified here—are utterly unique and fascinating departures. At some point, German Pinot will get its spot on the varietal Mount Rushmore alongside the more-established greats; in the meantime, we’ll continue to enjoy them at way-below-market pricing!
“Do it different and better than anyone else” has been Gerhard Gutzler’s motto since converting his father’s farm into a full-fledged winery in 1985. And, with their induction into Germany’s VDP (a tiered quality system similar to Burgundy’s) just 20 years later, his bold philosophy is working. Though Gutzler has immense love for the country’s revered Riesling grape, he is most devoted to Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Together, Gerhard and his son, Michael, look after their 32 estate-owned acres around the region of Rheinhessen. Michael, albeit young, is somewhat of a wine prodigy: He was recognized as one of Germany’s top young winemakers and also founded “Message in a Bottle”—a local organization focused on delivering quality wines. When the reins are fully handed over to Michael, it’s safe to say the estate will be in exceptional hands.
Today’s “Gutswein” refers to the first of four tiers on the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) system—the rough equivalent of seeing “Bourgogne” on a French label. The Pinot fruit comes from Gutzler’s estate vines in Rheinhessen, and after harvesting/sorting by hand, the grapes are completely destemmed at their winery. Gerhard believes “a great wine is created in the vineyard and not in the cellar” so you won’t see heavy manipulation during the winemaking process. After a traditional fermentation, the nascent wine ages in used 500-liter French barrels for 10 months. We must remember that Pinot Noir has been planted here (the original rootstock was brought over by Charlemagne) for more than a millennium and, today, Germany can proudly label itself the world’s third-largest producer of the grape. That, combined with Gutzler’s adept touch—they’re considered one of Germany’s finest red wine producers—means one, simple thing: This is high quality Pinot Noir.
In the glass, Gutzler’s 2015 “Gutswein” Pinot Noir reveals a deep ruby core with garnet reflections at the rim. The aromas are an elegant melding of black cherry and raspberry fruit next to purple flowers, crushed rock, leather, slight smoke, and damp clay. The palate is a ‘full’ medium-bodied and greets you with fine-grained, soft-shouldered tannins. A fresh and precise lift of acidity is present, but, interestingly, it isn’t as high or bracing as certain climats in Côte de Nuits. You can expect an array of red/black berry fruit to complement the palate, alongside graceful layers of mineral and herbal savor. This is a Pinot to enjoy now and over the next few years, but it will certainly benefit from some air. Just twist off the Stelvin closure and rest it in a cool place for 15-30 minutes prior to pouring in Burgundy stems around 60 degrees. Pair alongside roasted quail on a bed of various wild mushrooms and you’re ready for a classic French meal with a German twist. Enjoy!
