Almost every offer we post here includes some type of estimate as to how long the wine will age under proper storage conditions. If I had tasted today’s 2006 when it was first released, I might not have predicted that it would still be going strong after 10 years.
Before the more-recent explosion of oxidative, skin-fermented “orange” wines in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the prevailing style of white wine in the region was squeaky-clean, steel-fermented ‘varietal’ white that was generally consumed young. And while no one’s likely to lay down a Pinot Grigio for 10 years, the native varieties Friulano and Ribolla Gialla have always shown real aging potential. Today’s library release from Renato Keber confirms that: It found its way to us thanks to the winery’s West Coast importer, who noticed an Instagram post from Renato Keber that included several back vintages of his signature Friulano. It wasn’t long after that the importer was tasting a series of perfectly preserved bottles in Keber’s cellars and excitedly arranging to bring over some of this 2006 (among other vintages). After tasting the ’06 myself, I pounced on the opportunity to offer some—it is an extremely rare treat to experience a top Friulano with this much age. With textures and aromatics reminiscent of an Alsace Grand Cru, this benchmark Italian white remains remarkably fresh and full of energy. We have enough to offer up to six bottles per customer today, which, at this price, will likely disappear quickly.
Renato Keber’s small farmstead, which has been in his family since his great-grandfather settled in the hamlet of Zegla in 1900. Zegla is part of the larger commune of Cormòns, which is to Friulian white wine what towns like Puligny and Chassagne are to white Burgundy. Located almost right on the Italian border with Slovenia, the vineyards of Cormòns are effectively equidistant from the Julian Alps (which form part of the border further north) and the Adriatic Sea. This push-pull of mountain- and sea-borne air is the key to the region’s success with white wines: Vines are refreshed every evening, which lengthens the growing season to heighten aromatics and preserve acidity, but there’s also enough warmth and sun to deliver ripeness and depth.
Spanning a total of 15 terraced hectares in and around Zegla, Keber’s vineyards are rooted in the classic ponka soils of the area: a rocky, marl-sandstone mixture whose mineral character is especially well-transmitted by the local Friulano grape (a distant relative of Sauvignon Blanc known as Sauvignonasse, or Sauvignon Vert). Keber has always been known as a Friulano specialist, with one of his calling cards being a penchant for long lees aging in tank following fermentation (a practice proven to increase white wine longevity). Today’s 2006 was fermented under controlled temperatures in stainless steel and aged for an extended period on its lees; overall, it spent 44 months in large, used Slavonian oak casks and another 18 months in tank before it was first bottled.
Now with more than a decade of age under its belt, Keber’s ’06 has taken on a deep straw-gold cast but remains bright and glistening, with evident viscosity as you swirl the glass. The aromatics combine stone fruits such as apricot and white peach with white flowers, wet stones, and a hint of almond skin on the finish. Medium-plus on the palate, it has a nice juiciness to the texture checked by still-refreshing acidity (the lifeblood of any ageworthy white) and a deep vein of minerality. It is peaking right now and doesn’t need a lot of time open to blossom: Pull the cork 10-15 minutes before serving this at 50 degrees next to a whole-roasted branzino, Friuli-style. Pure deliciousness from start to finish. Cheers!
