In the wine business, an extremely common question from outsiders is “who makes the best Pinot Noir/Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/etc.” With so many nuances and variables, it’s an impossible call to make—unless Cabernet Franc is the topic of discussion: In my eyes, Clos Rougeard’s jaw-droppingly expressive wines are in a class all their own. But, with prices that are out of reach for many, we constantly search for affordable alternatives that can match its authenticity and vivid varietal fruit (taxing work, to say the least).
Recently, during the end of a routine blind tasting, the final wine in the lineup took center stage: it was undeniably central Loire Cab Franc, but with a level of elegance and focus almost exclusively limited to the cult wines of Clos Rougeard. You can obviously imagine my excitement when Le Petit Saint Vincent’s insanely affordable “Clos Lyzières” was revealed! It makes sense, too: It hails from a single parcel situated a matter of feet from Clos Rougeard’s famed “Les Poyeux” vineyard. I’ve strongly admired Le Petit Saint Vincent’s organically farmed wines for some time now, but this bottle, vintage, and price blows the hinges off my already high expectations. Ultimately, it’s simple: When a $20-something wine performs at this level, you pay your respects, and then you pounce.
From the crisp, intensely mineral Muscadets in the Pays Nantais, through the Cab Francs and Chenin Blancs of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, to the easterly appellations crafting Sauvignon Blanc, the Loire Valley is home to incredible history (reaching back to Charlemagne); a wildly diverse collections of wines; and superb values across the board. One of the appellations of note here is Saumur-Champigny—ground zero for some of the world’s most classic expressions of Cabernet Franc, thanks to the dominant presence of tuffeau in the soils. While there are other factors in play, there’s wide agreement that this soft-textured, yellowish limestone lends Saumur-Champigny reds their exceptional brightness and perfumed aromatics. On the whole, these wines tend to be more delicate expressions of Cabernet Franc, with more emphasis on the dark fruits and high-toned floral aromatics of the variety.
Fourth-generation owner and winemaker Dominique Joseph was an early convert to organic farming and has held a certification for many years. Known locally as ‘Pelo,’ he has run the family operation since 1990 and works out of a stunning, multi-chambered cellar carved directly from the local tuffeau. Pelo’s parcel in “Clos Lyzières” soaks up the sun in its southeast-facing position and today’s 2015 is a choice selection from 55-year-old Cabernet Franc vines. In the winery—only minutes away—grapes are 100% destemmed and undergo an extremely lengthy four-week maceration (it makes sense once you see the deep concentration and color of the wine). During this time, he keeps the wine moving via punch-downs and pump-overs in order to achieve maximum integration. Unlike his “Les Poyeux,” which rests in oak, this ages entirely in concrete vessels.
In the glass, Le Petit Saint Vincent’s 2015 “Clos Lyzières” reveals an entirely opaque dark crimson-purple core that transforms into bright magenta around the rim. The warmth of 2015 ensures that a long list of high-toned aromatics explode from the glass: black currant, blackberry, Damson plum, licorice, wild black raspberry, leather, freshly picked herbs, exotic baking spices, tobacco leaf, turned earth, and a full-on blitz of purple flowers. On the palate, Clos Lyzières has great elegance next to dark ripe fruits and what seems to be never ending waves of minerality and savory earth. Thankfully, there is no lack of acidity here—it meets you on both the mid-palate and finish, making the wine incredibly refreshing through and through. It’s medium-plus bodied, wildly expressive, and, while showing supple ripeness, non-fruit components also come to the fore. I have no doubt this will age seamlessly over the next decade, but it can easily be enjoyed after a 30-60 minute decant. I recommend serving in large Burgundy stems around 65 degrees next to a slow-roasted lamb shoulder, and while you wait for it to cook, drink a rosé from Saumur! Enjoy!
