As hardcore Burgundy geeks are aware, a wine from “Clos de Bèze” can be labeled as “Chambertin” but not the other way around. Clos de Bèze is slightly larger than Chambertin, at about 15 hectares, with a similar eastern exposure but a more convex aspect (memorably described by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) as being like a “Cinemascope screen”). Altitudes here range from about 240-300 meters and soils are said to have a little higher limestone-to-clay ratio as compared to Chambertin. Regardless, what we’re talking about here are the most powerful, mineral, dark-fruited examples of Burgundian Pinot Noir on earth.

Drouhin-Laroze, based in Gevrey-Chambertin, boasts one of the more impressive collections of vineyard holdings in the Côte de Nuits, owing to its long history. Jean-Baptiste Laroze first worked the soils of Gevrey-Chambertin back in 1850. His granddaughter, Suzanne Laroze, married Alexandre Drouhin, and combined her Gevrey holdings with his Chambolle-Musigny vineyards and the Domaine Drouhin-Laroze name was born. Today, 166 years after Jean-Baptiste founded the Domaine, the family business is run by sixth-generation Philippe and Christine Drouhin, who have drastically reduced yields and worked to craft wine in pristine conditions with traditional practices. 

We’ve spent the better part of the last two years singing the praises of the 2014 vintage for Burgundian reds—it’s known for structure, pristine fruit, and balance, which today’s wine has in spades. Fermented with the incorporation of about 20% whole grape clusters and aged in 80% new French oak, this is elite red Burgundy designed to go the distance. At the moment, it’s a deep, concentrated ruby moving to garnet at the rim, with a brooding nose that melds sweet and savory notes in the most inviting way: notes of black cherry, black currant, underbrush, damp forest, wild mushroom, black tea and delicate oak spice all carry over to a powerful, nearly full-bodied palate. Although we found lots to love in this wine after it spent some time open, this is one I’d advise waiting on for a bit—in 3-5 years this should really start to blossom, and 20-30+ years of graceful evolution is not out of the question if kept well. If you want to check out a bottle now, decant it at least one hour before serving in large Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. Match it with something that will tame its power and draw out its aromas—something hearty and roasted, with a healthy slathering of herbs. The attached recipe should do nicely, but remember: patience will be handsomely rewarded here. You want some of this in your cellar!