We teased the arrival of today’s wine a few months ago, when our team was in France with its importer. And as I look back on two weeks of tasting in France, including stops in the Loire, Burgundy, and the Rhône, this bottling remains one of the most memorable of the trip for me. I’m a huge fan of Domaine de Noiré’s entry-level Chinon, called “Soif de Tendresse” (“thirst for tenderness”), but this wine is truly on another level—by design.
The greatest interpreters of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc have tamed much of the rusticity that used to define these wines and inserted more perfume, supple texture, and purple-fruited purity in its place. It’s not that there isn’t soil character—today’s “Caractère,” planted on limestone, is full of mineral nerve—but rather that there is vibrant fruit to balance it. Held back for extended bottle aging in the cellar before release, this 2014 is in beautiful drinking condition right now, full of energy, complexity, and most of all, refinement. In my mind, it’s a game-changing Chinon on par with the very best in the zone, including the aromatic and eminently age-worthy wines of Olga Raffault. And while it may go without saying at this point, it is seriously undervalued. I can’t recommend it highly enough!
Domaine de Noiré has a storied history, tracing its roots to the mid-1700s when the first winery was built. The estate that stands today dates to 1904 and, despite having purchased Domaine de Noiré only in the early 2000s, proprietors Odile and Jean-Max Manceau have achieved levels of quality and commercial success that few others could dream to match in such a short period. That is not by mistake: The pair has a proven track record in the wine business and they’ve showcased their talents by pumping life back into the ancient estate. Chinon native Jean-Max previously served as the president of the Chinon AOC governing body and led a commission that preserves traditional winemaking throughout Loire Valley. The name Manceau carries weight in the region, and the couple’s goal is to produce traditional wines that are the purest, truest expressions of Cabernet Franc.
Situated along the Vienne River (a Loire tributary) and counting the Philippe Alliet and Bernard Baudry domaines among its closest neighbors, Domaine de Noiré comprises 34 acres of vines, averaging 30 years old, planted in different sections of Chinon and showcasing the three classic soil types of the region: alluvial gravel closest to the riverbank(s); sandy clay with flintstone higher up; and the classic Loire Valley limestone—a.k.a. tuffeau—and clay at the highest elevations. Odile and Jean-Max are strong supporters of organic farming and quickly converted the entire estate within a few years of taking over. They’ve since planted ground cover and implemented biodynamic cultivation practices. During harvest, yields are limited to boost quality and all fruit is picked manually.
Manceau’s range of Chinons is organized by soil type. “Caractère” comes from some of the estate’s oldest vines (45-70 years) on limestone soils, and was aged 13 months in mostly used, 400-liter French oak barrels. Jean-Max then left the wine to age in bottle in his cellar, re-visiting the wine periodically until he deemed it ready for release. Now with some “time on the cork,” as they say, the wine has knit together beautifully: In the glass, it displays a deep ruby core moving to magenta and garnet at the rim, with aromas of blackberry, red and black currant, cassis, violets, cedar, turned earth and just a faint hint of the minty ‘green-ness’ that is a Cab Franc identifier in blind tastings. Medium-plus in body (by Chinon standards) and lushly textured, its acidity is refreshing rather than piercing and the tannins extremely fine-grained and soft. It’s pure pleasure to enjoy now at 60-65 degrees after 30 minutes in a decanter, but its balance and freshness suggests a solid 10 years of evolution ahead of it. Pour it in Bordeaux stems and consider keeping a few bottles around for Thanksgiving, for which its versatility and cranberry-accented fruit would be fantastic. Otherwise, try the attached recipe for nearer-term enjoyment. Check it out!
