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Domaine Delorme et Fils, Pouilly-Fuissé, “Sur la Roche”

Other, France 2016 (750mL)
$29.00
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Domaine Delorme et Fils, Pouilly-Fuissé, “Sur la Roche”

Nestled in Pouilly-Fuissé’s northern reaches, the town of Vergisson proudly bears a sculpted main attraction you may not expect: Like Gibraltar’s monolithic limestone peak, Roche de Vergisson looms over this idyllic village. “Sur la Roche” is a vineyard that lies beneath this towering geographical monument and is one of several lieux-dits slated for Premier Cru elevation in the near future. Today, we’re able to offer it to you before it officially happens!
I’m sure some of you have purchased a fine wine prior to it receiving a near-perfect score and rising multiples in price—it’s an immensely satisfying feeling, somewhat of an insider victory. Although the introduction of Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Crus won’t skyrocket prices to this degree, it still makes for both an exciting and privy purchase because, just like the hundreds of Premier Crus that lie within the Côte de Nuits, “Sur la Roche,” too, went through the same rigorous assessments. The last note of importance is that this wine is a departure from the typical rich/oaky Pouilly-Fuissé. It’s full of fresh lift and mineral verve with depth to boot—think of a Grand Chablis and Côte de Beaune hybrid. Word to the wise: For this low price and soon-to-be raised rank, Delorme’s Pouilly-Fuissé should not be missed!
Though just two years shy of celebrating its 200th anniversary as a domaine, the Delorme name can be traced back even further: they’ve found documents from the 1600s that link their surname to local winemaking. Over the centuries, the family has stuck to their traditional roots and remained staunchly loyal to Chardonnay, something of a rarity in today’s money-grab world. Delorme’s vines in the 10-acre lieu-dit of “Sur la Roche” are situated in clay-limestone soils that surround the Roche de Vergisson (its peak reaches 1600 feet). These vines average 40 years of age and are meticulously farmed with organic principles. Harvesting and a strict selection process are always carried out by hand, and fermentation in their neighboring winery is initiated with indigenous yeasts. The resulting wine is aged in a mixture of temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and French barrels until being bottled and stored in their ancient 18th century cellar.

Delorme’s 2016 “Sur la Roche” displays a bright straw-yellow core with slight platinum reflections leading out to the rim. The nose is subtly fruited with supple layers of candied lime peel, yellow apple, melon skin, and lemon verbena, followed by crushed rocks, citrus blossoms, and a hint of lingering spice. The palate is characterized more by precision and lift instead of unctuous fruit and baking spice. There’s tremendous freshness that invigorates the palate, prickling your taste buds with lively citrus fruits. As it warms up, some creamier aspects appear, but overall this is a refreshing Chardonnay that performs more like something from Chablis or Côte de Beaune than Pouilly-Fuissé. That’s the case now, anyway: It it built to age and should broaden nicely over the next five years, so there’s no need to yank the cork out when the bottle arrives. When you do decide to consume, offer it a brief 30 minute decant and pour into white Burgundy stems at 50 degrees. Drink next to a classic preparation of sole meunière and you have yourself a quick and spot-on pairing. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Other
Sub-Region
FrancePouilly-Fuissé
Soil
Clay-Limestone
Farming
Organic Practices
Blend
Chardonnay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Partial French Oak
TEMP.
50-55
Glassware
White Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2020
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Sole Meunière

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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