Domaine David Duband has quickly become a global sensation, which is why it’s extremely important to remember that “entry level” wines from Burgundy’s greatest names will outmatch, outclass, and outperform Premier Cru bottlings from run-of-the-mill producers.
I can think of many names whose neighboring Vosne-Romanée and N-S-G Premier Crus fall exceedingly short (in quality and value) of today’s “Hautes-Côtes de Nuits”—a “high slopes” vineyard area that abuts Côtes de Nuits’ famous communes. And, a quick secret for you, in the heat of 2015 this high-altitude appellation created exceptional wines! Unique location aside, the brilliant winemaking hand of David Duband cemented the overall success of this wine. He, somewhat paradoxically, is an avant-garde producer reverting to simpler times by farming naturally and crafting terroir-driven wines with subtle oak influence. Essentially, he walks the unusual tightrope between modern and traditional winemaking, and today’s offer is a nimbly fruited, mineral-pure Pinot with breathtaking aromatics; a towering achievement in 2015! Although prices for Duband’s wines have recently broken into a new atmosphere, this (still) affordable gem is packed with pedigree and savor—it will surely fool your “only Premier Cru and above” friends.
As all great writers must work towards finding their voice, it can be said that every great winemaker must find his/her own style. David Duband is one of those winemakers—a traditionalist with his own innovative fingerprint that’s been at the helm of his family estate since 1991. Under his father, Pierre, the family had modest holdings in the Côte de Nuits, which originally sold their grapes to the cooperative in Beaune. Over the years, David has expanded the estate’s holdings and has converted all of his vineyards as well as his long-term leases to organic and biodynamic viticulture under the strict governing body of Ecocert. David obtained an Oenology degree in Beaune before joining his father at the family domaine. Once he took the reins, David began crafting and bottling all of their wines in-house, and in doing so found his signature style that has firmly ensconced the Duband name among the greatest in Burgundy.
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits consists of higher-elevation, tree-lined slopes overlooking the villages of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée. David’s vines are nearing 50 years of age and are rooted in nearly all limestone soils. They sit at an elevation of 1300 feet—among the highest in the appellation—just outside his home base in Chévannes, due west and upslope of Vosne-Romanée proper. Only organic practices are implemented throughout the growing season and the crop is always picked and sorted by hand. At his winery, the grapes are 60% destemmed before entering a lengthy 17 day fermentation with a minimum of five punch downs by foot! After two weeks of settling, the wine is then transferred into new (30%) and used (1-3 years old) French barrels for 14 months. After racking, the wine rests for an additional three months before it is bottled unfined and unfiltered.
David Duband’s 2015 “Louis Auguste” shows a bright ruby core leading to a light pink-ruby rim. Though young, beautiful aromas emerge instantly, with more earthiness showing after a few minutes of air. Supple notes of crushed black raspberry, cherry, strawberry coulis, and purple flowers lead the charge, followed by turned earth, fresh rose petal, underbrush, damp mushroom, and subtle baking spice. After 30 minutes of air, it began showing pristine fruit and perfumed layers that I search for in bottles twice the price; that’s the genius of David Duband. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, soft, and textured with a lift of fresh black and red berry fruit. The finish is buttressed by a pulsating lift of acidity that punches far above what most others could achieve in 2015. Additionally, it eschews “barnyard funk” without sacrificing any savory earth or minerality; just a perfectly balanced and pure wine! This will be a joy to drink until its tenth birthday, but if drinking sooner rather than later, decant for 30-60 minutes and enjoy in large Burgundy stems. For pairing, this one definitely has the finesse for seafood if you choose to go that way; check out the attached recipe incorporating arctic char, a sustainable and deeply flavorful choice. Enjoy!
