One of our darling Burgundy producers, Confuron-Cotetidot, crafted an extraordinary Echézeaux from their one acre plot in 2013 and it will prove to be a monumental, cellar-worthy achievement. Should you be able to exercise sufficient patience, this Grand Cru bottling will become one of the most rewarding Burgundian wines you’ll ever taste.
For the uninitiated, here’s why: Following in the footsteps of their parents, the Confuron brothers have stayed true to their “old school” philosophies while working with mature, low-yielding vines from a world-famous terroir. As their Grand Crus develop—around their 10th birthday—they gain nuanced complexities and display a seamless purity that is breathtakingly singular. With most of this micro-production Echézeaux reserved for the finest restaurants, it took us months to track some down. And while we would enjoy offering this rare beauty to our entire customer base, our minute allocation simply won’t allow it, so if you received this email—congratulations (and thank you for being one of our very best customers). We’re allowing two bottles per person today, so best of luck securing this delicious, long-aging treasure: It will sell out quickly!
By now, given how many of their wines we’ve offered, the Confuron-Cotetidot story should be a familiar one: This is a family operation, specializing in séléction massale—the process of propagating new plants by using cuttings from the best-performing vines in the vineyard. Parents Jean-Jacques “Jacky” (Confuron) and Bernadette (Cotetidot), who created the domaine in 1964, still work the vines today; Yves and Jack now handle day-to-day operations and winemaking, while simultaneously holding positions at other properties. The family farms about 12 hectares of vineyards from ‘village’ level to Grand Cru, and they’ve even developed a clone of Pinot Noir that carries their name: “Pinot Confuron.” Farming has always been done organically, without the use of synthetic pesticides or herbicides, and all wines are unfiltered and unfined.
Within the northern section of Vosne-Romanée, Echézeaux is a sprawling Grand Cru vineyard wedged in the intersecting corner of Chambolle-Musigny and Vougeot. It houses
11 distinct climats, or subdivided vineyard plots, and Confuron-Cotetidot’s tiny parcel—1.1 acres—of 55-year-old vines lies in “Les Treux.” Brothers Yves and Jean-Pierre “Jack” Confuron have continued to build on what their parents started back in the 1960s, mostly by not changing anything: The vines are old, perfectly-placed, and have never seen an ounce of synthetic spray; they’ve been farmed naturally since day one. Rows are regularly plowed and harvest is conducted by hand after a judicious grape selection. In the winery, grapes undergo a lengthy, ‘whole-cluster’ fermentation via indigenous yeasts. The resulting wine ages two years in new French barrels—never more than 50% new—and is bottled without fining or filtration.
In the glass, the Confuron brothers’ 2013 Echézeaux displays a dark ruby core moving out to bright magenta on the rim. If drinking this now, decant several hours before serving. Upon pouring, expect a rush of raw power: full of forest floor, smoke, and brushed leather confidently backed by dark fruit. Further study will reveal black cherry, black raspberry, wild plums, star anise, blackcurrant, licorice, cloves, and bay leaf. The palate is incredibly structured with tightly packed tannins and bright acidity before revealing a fully extracted and fresh mouthfeel. I highly advise keeping your hands off this until its 10th birthday because it will undergo a monumental change between its fifth and 10th year. For those who must try one now, show it a 2-3 hour decant or pull the cork in early morning and let it sit in the cellar for the entire day, pouring it into a decanter an hour before dinnertime. As with all powerful Grand Crus, serve in your largest Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees and let it shine alongside a rich and savory dish on a cooler night. Instead of a routine beef bourguignon, try switching it up with the attached duck alternative. Cheers!