In 2008, Fabrice and Valerie Closset-Gaziaux founded Champ Divin after acquiring 12 acres of land that was only planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Savagnin. Today, they are leading the way in organic and biodynamic viticulture, emphasizing patience and observance in order to understand the natural balance of their sites. This is the reason they produce wildly pure Crémant du Jura—one of eight areas in France that can make wines with the crémant designation (the others being Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die, Limoux, Loire, and Savoie). Production is exactly how it is in Champagne, the only difference is terroir and aging requirements. 

Perched on the Jura’s “premier plateau,” the husband-wife team aptly named their estate Champ Divin, which translates to “Divine Estate.”  A natural fit for this endeavor, agronomy and earth science backgrounds streamlined their push toward sustainable farming practices, as well as their natural farming experiences in Africa and the Loire Valley. The result of their labors are wines of incredible purity that teem with Alpine life and energy. Today’s crémant comes from their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines (five acres each) rooted in clay-limestone topsoil over silica bedrock. They harvest all of their fruit exclusively by hand and gently press it before both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are carried out at cool, regulated temperatures. The second fermentation occurs in bottle and the wine then ages on its lees for just under a year before disgorgement. 

What’s instantly noticeable is Champ Divin’s deep yellow hue which, large bubbles aside, gives the appearance of a high quality Champagne that has seen years of aging. This illusion continues on the nose as well: Rich and seductive, you’ll pick up aromas of Bosc pear, green apple skin, candied lime and almonds, peach pit, green mango, honeysuckle, white flowers, acacia, crushed chalk, damp earth, and an assortment of citrus blossoms. On the palate, however, there is a noticeable difference—the wine is lean and refreshing, offering just under ripe fruits and subtle nuttiness which points towards Jura’s trademark oxidative qualities. The wine pushes past medium-bodied and delivers a wildly fresh mouthfeel with loads of soft fruit and strong mineral textures. It is bone-dry and sports a high level of acid, but its overall structure remains in check—truly an impressive achievement. Drink this around 50 degrees in your choice of wide-tulip flutes or all-purpose stems (I used the latter in order to tame the mousse and energetic presence of bubbles). Pair Champ Divin’s Zéro Dosage with a citrus-marinated Hamachi crudo, or break it out as an eye-opening apéritif. It will deliver in either scenario. Cheers!