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Claypool Cellars, “Pachyderm” Pinot Noir

California, United States 2014 (750mL)
$49.00
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Claypool Cellars, “Pachyderm” Pinot Noir

Other than the one above, I’ll spare you the gratuitous musical references while presenting this new release of Claypool Cellars Pinot Noir. Yes, this label is the creation of rock bassist Les Claypool (of the band Primus) and his wife, Chaney, but it’s not some fly-by-night vanity wine: The couple has lived in western Sonoma County for more than 25 years, developing a deep connection with the place and its greatest vineyards.
One of their best-known Pinot Noir bottlings is from the Hurst Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, but today’s wine carries not just the Sonoma Coast appellation but the deft touch of star winemaking duo Ross Cobb (Cobb Wines; Hirsch; Flowers) and Katy Wilson (LaRue), who not only have deep relationships with the region’s best growers but a sensibility that favors elegance and energy over extraction and force. As Claypool himself says, “having altered our focus more towards the Sonoma Coast and its glorious fruit, our wines are leaner and more delicate than ever before.” And while we here at SommSelect greatly enjoyed their flagship “Hurst Vineyard” bottling (and offered it to great response last year), this 2014 from the Sonoma Coast was a revelation—exquisitely perfumed and full of the brightness and tension that distinguishes great red Burgundies. As we noted last year, this is top-tier Pinot Noir that doesn’t need the ‘celebrity factor’ to sell it; this is a real-deal expression of the west Sonoma Coast.
“Pachyderm” is the over-arching ‘brand’ name attached to the Claypool lineup, which includes several single-vineyard bottlings in addition to wines such as this one, which takes full advantage of the Cobb/Wilson team’s grower relationships up and down the vast Sonoma Coast AVA. The Hurst Vineyard has been Claypool’s ‘estate’ site for many years, and it sits in a unique position—it’s at a high elevation (500+ feet) in the Sebastopol Hills, which are technically part of the Russian River Valley AVA. In looking at a map, these hills are in the southwest corner of the Russian River Valley, straddling the official boundary with the Sonoma Coast AVA. These days, this Sonoma Coast bottling includes not just fruit from Hurst but a handful of other noteworthy Sonoma Coast sites, including the Rice-Spivak Vineyard (a six-acre site farmed by Cobb’s crew); and the Moore and Thorn Ridge Vineyards, both Sebastopol Hills sites. Soils in these sites are predominantly a sandy-loam mixture of the “Goldridge” series.

While Rice-Spivak is the closest of the group to the Pacific, all the component vineyards feel its influence, resulting in a wine of genuine ‘cool climate’ character (something that’s talked about more than it is accomplished in California). This 2014 is lively and perfumed, with very moderate alcohol (12.5%) and a refreshing but soft grip of fine-grained tannin. It was aged 16 months in 25% new French oak barrels and then another year-plus knitting together in bottle before release (a Claypool signature Cobb describes as “an ideal situation if you can afford to do it”). That extra time in bottle most definitely has a positive effect, lending the wine more poise and balance than is typical of most ‘new release’ bottlings.

In the glass, the 2014 “Pachyderm” Sonoma Coast is a deep ruby with hints of crimson and magenta at the rim. The aromatics are a bright, red-fruited mix of cherry, currants, cranberry, rose petals, wild herbs, baking spices, and the slightest hint of vanilla (the oak influence is extremely subtle). Medium-bodied and full of energy, it drinks beautifully now and should broaden nicely over the next 5-7 years. It really shows off a Chambolle-Musigny-like delicacy with lots of florals on the finish—definitely more violins than cellos here (sorry, couldn’t resist). Serve this nervy Pinot at 60-65 degrees (or cooler) in Burgundy stems with a simple grilled piece of fish topped with blistered cherry tomatoes (they’ll be here soon) and some herbs. It’s a high-end option for Summer that will refresh and impress in equal measure. Enjoy!
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Country
United States
Region
California
Sub-Region
United StatesSonoma Coast
Soil
Goldridge Sandy Loam
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Pinot Noir
Alcohol
12.5
OAK
25% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2020
Decanting
Optional
Pairing
Grilled Sea Bass w/ Cherry Tomatoes

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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