Today, we’re bringing you the ultimate dual offering from a true original in the world of California wine: Cathy Corison. Two bottles, 10 years apart, both directly from her cool cellars. When one thinks of “cult Cabs” from Napa, most everyone imagines a hedonistic giant that runs on high-octane fruit and $500+ price tags, but at the other end of that spectrum are committed classicists like Corison, who are enjoying a resurgence in popularity—especially among sommeliers.
Without fail, Corison’s wines always showcase Napa’s elegant side, utilizing sustainable viticulture, old vines, and a minimalist approach in the winery. I’ll let the estimable Jancis Robinson back me up: “Cathy Corison is my heroine. She makes such great wine—the essence of Napa Valley minus the bludgeoning force.” Today’s two wines are, in a word, sensational. You have the grace and superb development of a nearly 15-year-old Napa Cab juxtaposed with the youthful vigor of a brilliant new release. This is one heck of a treat and was offered to us exclusively—Corison doesn’t even sell the 2004 at their winery—so take advantage while you can! This two-pack is not to be missed.
[Note: With each order you will receive both the 2004 & 2014, and due to an extremely limited supply we must limit everyone to two orders]
After an introductory wine course at Pomona College some 40-odd years ago (taught by author John Haeger, no less), Cathy became enamored with the subject (her majoring in biology was perhaps an influential factor). She went on to obtain a masters in enology at UC Davis and followed that up with stints at various wineries including Freemark Abbey, Staglin, and Chappellet. It was during her tenure at the latter when she began purchasing grapes and using rented spaces to craft small-batch wines. After eight years of honing her craft and producing great wines for others, her purchase of Kronos Vineyard—now the source of her top-of-the-line wine—solidified her presence in Napa. Four years later (1999), Cathy and her husband, William Martin, began building their winery/barn hybrid directly adjacent to Kronos.
Cathy’s Napa Valley Cabernet, today’s offering, is her flagship. For 31 straight vintages she has sourced from three highly regarded benchland vineyards, considered to have the best terroirs due to their gentle slope, sun exposure, and classic Bale gravelly loam soils. Today, Corison follows organic practices, promotes biodiversity, and is trending toward dry farming—a Napa rarity. In the winery, Cathy intervenes minimally in order to achieve the purest and most elegant expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. As noted by the New York Times’ Eric Asimov, “In an era when Napa Cabernets have shot up past 15 percent alcohol toward 16 percent, Corison Cabernets have never touched 14 percent.” Her wine ages for 20 months in small, new and used French barrels.
I’ve become a fan of the 2004 Vintage in the Napa Valley. It was early with a heat spike in September that moved things along briskly. It was not a big crop, but the quality was excellent and the wines are aging beautifully—as Cathy’s brilliant 2004 demonstrates: In the glass, it shows an opaque dark garnet core with flashes of mahogany leading out to a brick-red rim. It slowly unfolds with dried berries, blackcurrant, blackberry, huckleberry, black plum, cigar wrapper, and cedar, followed by star anise, clove, underbrush, dried thyme, sweet mint, petrichor, cacao nibs, and nutmeg. On the palate, the wine is medium-plus bodied and structured by way of chewy tannins and a wonderfully fresh lift from the acidity. It’s incredibly long and savory, with building black fruits and lingering spice on the finish. Better yet, there’s still gas left in the tank—this will continue maturing for another 10 years! When drinking, decant for 30 minutes (watching for sediment) and serve in large Bordeaux stems. For pairing, try a tender, pan-seared
flatiron steak.
Then there’s the 2014: For those of you drinking side-by-side, there won’t be any chance of mixing the two wines—Corison’s current release reveals an opaque, dark ruby-purple core moving to a bright magenta and slight pink rim. The nose is intense and heady: Right off the bat, you’ll experience deeper, richer, more brooding dark fruits like ripe black cherry, blueberry, blackberry pie, and wild plums next to rose petal, licorice, fresh herbs, cedar box, chocolate shavings, vanilla bean, and baking spices. Though both alcohol levels are the same, the ‘14 feels full-bodied and denser, yet it retains Corison’s signature air of elegance. Despite its youthfulness, the tannins are impressively smooth and integrated with supple fruits and piquant spices on the long finish—which is why it’s wonderful to drink now after an hour decant (pro tip: it was singing on the second day). If you’re looking for its prime drinking window, wait 5-7 years before consuming, but keep in mind it will last 20+. For food, loosen up your belt buckle and pair this young gun with a juicy tomahawk (a.k.a. ‘cowboy’)
ribeye. Cheers!
