Just a short drive south of the famous Rheingau region, along the verdant banks of the Rhine River, you’ll find Rheinhessen, the largest of Germany’s 13 wine regions. It boasts wine history that dates to Roman times and, more recently, has gained superstar status thanks to increased focus on Riesling and to dedicated, quality-minded producers like Becker-Landgraf. Spouses and business partners Julia Becker-Landgraf and Johannes Landgraf bring a rich history from both sides of the family: The Becker estate was established in 1783 and the Landgraf history reaches back to the mid-1700s. So, when Julia and Johannes combined forces to form Weingut Becker-Landgraf, two of Rheinhessen’s wine dynasties were fused together.

Today, the fourth-generation couple, who call themselves “J2,” meticulously farm 20 acres to produce their small-production, handcrafted wines. The winery is nestled at the foot of the celebrated Petersberg summit, where some of the finest vines of the entire region are grown. Derived from vineyards of Gau-Odernheim and the Petersberg rise, their estate Riesling is from soils that have a cultivated history that date back to Charlemagne’s reign. Petersberg’s high-altitude site provides complex alluvial deposits of clay, loess, and limestone that includes ancient sea shells scattered through the soil. The minerality is distinct to this special site and provides a unique contrast to the slate minerality of Germany’s Mosel. 

The Becker-Landgrafs firmly believe that great wine is made in the vineyard; as such, they strive to naturally translate their special terroir in the glass. Incredibly eco-conscious, they eschew irrigation, artificial fertilizers, and use only natural compost to enrich the soil. Yields are kept extremely low, which results in wines of ample concentration, with the unique fingerprint of their special geographical pocket in Rheinhessen. They hand-harvest their grapes over numerous passes to ensure that only perfectly ripened, pristine fruit makes its way into their wines. Wine is fermented with wild, natural yeast in wooden barrels without the use of any additives. The wine is bottled without fining and delivers a snapshot of absolute purity and layered expression of place.

 

Becker-Landgraf’s 2016 Riesling Trocken displays a deep yellow core with platinum and green reflections leading out to the rim. Bright and sweetly perfumed, the nose explodes with candied lime peel, Meyer lemon, tangerine, white peach skin, and freshly cut green apples before revealing notes of crushed oyster shell, chalk, honeysuckle, citrus blossoms, acacia and wet stones. One also detects Riesling’s signature ‘petrol’ presence. Though the fruits smell sweet and maintain a juicy ripeness on the palate, the wine is refreshingly dry from start to finish. There is tension and vivacity to this ‘16—it is brimming with crushed rock minerality that fuses with citrus and green apple fruit. It ends garden-fresh and long, with a prickle of tropical fruit populating the back end. This is a wine to enjoy now and over the next five years—as it ages, more savory aromatics will emerge, something that complements dry Riesling to the highest degree. Sustain a temperature of 45-50 degrees for this Riesling and serve in specialty stems or an all-purpose white; you can’t go wrong, so long as you don’t cover up its breathtaking aromas! Follow the recipe for a ginger pork and cucumber salad (remove the red chili seeds if you want to avoid a bit of heat) and enjoy your summer eve. Cheers!