It’s always a rewarding experience to taste and write about wines from obscure producers (which was the case when we first offered Domaine de Gouye last year), but that joy was magnified tenfold when our team trekked to their vineyard during our visit in March. Clinging to a dangerously steep hillside in the village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols (which Rhône aficionados will recognize as the home of retired Saint-Joseph icon Raymond Trollat), the property offers a panoramic view of the Rhône River and the famed hill of Hermitage, which is just a few kilometers east as the crow flies.
Shaking the rugged hand of the man behind Domaine de Gouye and touring his small farmstead felt like a suspension of modernity. Third-generation Philippe Desbos oozes old-school French authenticity: You’ll find him tilling his vertiginous estate vineyard by horse (or with cable and winch in the steepest parcels), punching down grapes by foot, using a 19th century vertical press, and crafting the purest, most traditional wines in his hand-dug family cellar. Their newly released 2016 is a magnificent feat—it’s complex and graceful, with gorgeous aromatics and terroir-driven flavors that combine the savory components of northern Rhône and the refined elegance of top-tier Burgundy. We tasted the ‘16 Saint-Joseph over the course of three days, and while it was incredible right out of the bottle, its earth and fruit nuances blossomed with each successive day—a grand testament to its cellar-worthiness. Due to the success of the 2015 and our intimate experience at the domaine, we were able to secure a larger allocation this time around, which is still under a barrel! This is an important Northern Rhône wine—don’t be shy!
It bears repeating that De Gouye is a neighbor of Raymond Trollat. Those of you who follow Rhône wine closely may know that Trollat (who has retired and turned over the farming of his prized vineyards to another Saint-Joseph legend, Jean Gonon) is considered royalty in this region. More than a few American sommeliers and winemakers have made the pilgrimage to meet Trollat, and when we asked Desbos about him, he pointed downhill to a vineyard crowned by a single tree—that’s Trollat right there, he indicated, and not long thereafter we were in Trollat’s kitchen, where the grand old man and his wife treated us to a few glasses of wine and an unforgettable moment.
And while we’ll never forget Desbos’ graciousness in making that moment happen, we’ll never forget his wines, either. For me, de Gouye is one of the most exciting discoveries in recent memory, with wines that, like those of Gonon, elevate the supposedly ‘lesser’ Saint-Joseph appellation to a level on par with Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. For one thing, all Saint-Joseph is not created equal: This longitudinal appellation was extended to nearly 40 miles in length in 1969, causing total vineyard acreage to jump from 240 to 2,900 overnight. This allowed for the inclusion of ill-placed vineyards that create simple, uninspired wines. But when you get down to the nitty-gritty and uncover the best areas within Saint-Joseph, you’re rewarded with a serious, structured Syrah unafraid to compare itself with the greats of Northern Rhône. As Eric Asimov
noted in the New York Times, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols is one of the ‘original’ villages that comprised the Saint-Joseph AOC, along with a handful of others clustered on the west side of the Rhône opposite Tain l’Hermitage. This is prime territory for the best expressions of Syrah, thanks to high elevations and soils that are largely granitic with patches of limestone—far superior to the clayey soils found at the base of the hills.
Desbos’ Saint-Joseph comes from a south-facing, seven-acre plot of 50-year-old vines that surrounds the homestead of Philippe and his wife, Sylvie. Along with the help of his plow horse (which greeted us on arrival), they till the vineyard rows and follow strict sustainable practices until harvesting by hand. After grapes are hand harvested, sorted and foot-trodden, the ancient wood and block press is put to use. Following extraction, indigenous yeasts trigger a whole-cluster fermentation and then the wine is laid to rest in old, neutral French barrels for 16 months. Upon maturity, the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. The result is nothing short of stunning, especially at this price.
Domaine de Gouye’s 2016 Saint-Joseph displays a deep crimson core with magenta hues leading out to the rim (color concentration is slightly lighter in comparison to the previous vintage). Whereas rich, inky fruits were the frontrunners in 2015, this year focuses on perfumed floral and earth aromas: fresh violet and red flowers, aniseed, damp underbrush, freshly ground black pepper, raw leather, savory herbs and sweet olives rush forward, followed by elegant fruit components like blackberry, huckleberry, black licorice, and black raspberry. The palate is extremely layered and medium-plus in body, with a savory sensation that clings to an elegant core of dark fruits and spice. It’s youthfulness shouldn’t be judged: there are zero rough edges and perfect freshness driving a long and aromatic finish. Desbos makes a traditional, unadorned wine because there is nothing to cover up! It’s a 100% pure and ultra-classic expression of northern Rhône that will age 10-15 years with absolute ease. For those drinking today, decant for one hour minimum and serve at 65 degrees in bulbous Bordeaux stems. Ask your local butcher to butterfly a thick lamb leg for you and then follow the attached recipe for barbecued leg of lamb, Moroccan-style!
