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Skipstone, “Oliver’s Blend”

Other, United States 2014 (750mL)
$129.00
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Skipstone, “Oliver’s Blend”

If given the difficult task of describing “Oliver’s Blend” in just two words, I’d go with “seamless power.” This is one of the richest and freshest Cabernets from Alexander Valley I’ve come across in some time; the only thing that’s missing is excess. I fully believe this stands shoulder-to-shoulder with more prohibitively priced cult labels such as Harlan Estate, Screaming Eagle (first-offered for $75 in 1992; now selling for $2,500), and Bryant Family.
After chatting with Skipstone’s General Manager, however, it became clear that cultiness—and the prices it engenders—are not the focus here. What comes first is respect for the earth, followed by the skillful winemaking hand of Philippe Melka. But even if they don’t consider Skipstone a “Cult Cab,” it is one, except for the price; everything about it reflects meticulous effort and undeniable passion. Skipstone is Certified Organic, with a self-sustaining ecosystem; production is strictly limited (with most of it held back for a loyal mailing list); and of course, what they do make is crafted by one of the world’s most respected winemakers. We were thrilled when Skipstone was introduced to us, even more so when we tasted it. This is one to go all in on—it has such a pure expression of decadent black fruits that are interwoven with spice, minerality, and perfect balance (guaranteeing a long life ahead). We can offer three per person today, and I can assure you it’s well worth the investment.
Fahri Diner and his wife, Constance, purchased the estate in 2001 and immediately went to work making world-class wine as naturally as possible. Skipstone is Certified Organic through CCOF and they operate accordingly: “Nothing stands above our devoted partnership with the earth. This is more than a commitment to the vineyard and quality of our fruit, we believe it’s the right thing to do for our planet and future generations.” They don’t say this lightly either: Skipstone welcomes insects and predatory birds, uses organic compost, plants a dizzying number of cover crops (oats, peas, beans), and eschews chemicals of any form. They also make olive oil—Fahri is a proud Cypriot—and an impressive sparkling wine with the help of Champagne house Diebolt-Vallois (one of my favorite Blanc de Blancs producers). 

Skipstone’s 200-acre property is planted to 30 acres of vines in curving valleys and steep hillsides within Alexander Valley—the northern reaches of Sonoma. Twenty different vineyard lots were used for this bottle, so harvest took place over a three week period to ensure the Cabernet was being plucked at a perfect level of ripeness. The handpicked grapes fermented on their skins for nearly a month (!) in stainless steel tanks and were then transferred into 65% new French oak for a duration of 20 months. The wine was bottled without fining or filtration. Seeing as 2014 was such a fantastic year for Cabernet, only a small portion (2%) of Merlot was used in the final blend.

2014 “Oliver’s Blend” pours a brooding purple with garnet reflections leading out to the rim. It’s opaque and ink-thick with high levels of concentration. The nose does not disappoint: full of wild blackberry, créme de cassis, ripe black cherry, damson plum, purple flowers, wet clay, underbrush, bay leaf, exotic spices, and subtle hints of black pepper. The palate provides a seamless expression of lavish Cabernet and a full-bodied mouthfeel. All dark fruit is confirmed on the palate and the lift of minerality alongside soft-shouldered tannins make this a joy to drink right now. Though it has plenty of weight and density, there is pronounced structure here that avoids a “tiring” sensation. Many cult-styled wines are either undrinkable in their youth or so overly-extracted you need a knife to cut through it. Skipstone is neither. This is full-bodied wine at its best and you can expect this to gracefully evolve over the next two decades and beyond if kept well. Pour into large Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees and enjoy yourself—it’s an indulgent treat, even more so next to a tender filet mignon immersed in a bordelaise sauce. Add a dollop of black truffle butter on top if you feel so inclined. Enjoy!
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Country
United States
Region
Other
Sub-Region
United StatesAlexander Valley
Soil
Various Hillside Rock
Farming
Certified Organic
Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon 98%, Merlot 2%
Alcohol
14.6
OAK
65% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Bordeaux Stem
Drinking
Now-2040
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Filet Mignon au Bordelaise Sauce

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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