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J&J Eger, Egri Kékfrankos
J&J Eger is a blossoming tour de force partnership between Master Sommelier John Szabo and Dr. János Stumpf, protégé of Tibor Gál—chief winemaker at Ornellaia in the 90s and the most lionized name in all of Hungary. John Szabo’s burning desire to produce wine from the Kékfrankos grape—known elsewhere as Blaufränkisch (Austria) and Lemberger (Germany)—came to fruition in the mid-2000s and has quickly become one of Hungary’s most celebrated reds.
The revival of this wine and region has been met with incredible success. Regarding fame, Eger is arguably a region that outshines its northeast neighbor, Tokaj. It has long been known as the place for one of the world’s most spellbinding wines: Egri Bikavér, colloquially known as “Bull’s Blood.” When it enters conversation, many people nod with perplexity and unknowingly lower their voices, as if the wine itself is enveloped in mysticism. In some degree, it is (more on that below). What’s clear is that Egri Bikavér is quite simply a rugged blend of red grapes from Eger, with the workhorse being Kékfrankos. “Bull’s Blood,” however, isn’t the most buzzed-about juice here anymore—single-varietal wines are now en vogue, like today’s Kékfrankos from J&J Eger. In terms of traditional winemaking, classic terroir, and distinct charm, few other reds can match its $24 price point. It’s a wildly affordable value with unrivalled style, purity, and depth; perhaps an esoteric purchase now, but soon to be adored and talked about around the world. Take advantage while you can.
The revival of this wine and region has been met with incredible success. Regarding fame, Eger is arguably a region that outshines its northeast neighbor, Tokaj. It has long been known as the place for one of the world’s most spellbinding wines: Egri Bikavér, colloquially known as “Bull’s Blood.” When it enters conversation, many people nod with perplexity and unknowingly lower their voices, as if the wine itself is enveloped in mysticism. In some degree, it is (more on that below). What’s clear is that Egri Bikavér is quite simply a rugged blend of red grapes from Eger, with the workhorse being Kékfrankos. “Bull’s Blood,” however, isn’t the most buzzed-about juice here anymore—single-varietal wines are now en vogue, like today’s Kékfrankos from J&J Eger. In terms of traditional winemaking, classic terroir, and distinct charm, few other reds can match its $24 price point. It’s a wildly affordable value with unrivalled style, purity, and depth; perhaps an esoteric purchase now, but soon to be adored and talked about around the world. Take advantage while you can.
Let’s dispel the grapevine rumors surrounding “Bull’s Blood.” The old legend goes as such: In 1552, during the peak of the Ottoman Empire, the Turks decided to make quick work of Eger—a small, but centrally-located stronghold in northeast Hungary. A legion of Turks surrounded the castle and Eger’s small band of troops were given copious amounts of wine to distract them from the overwhelming disadvantage; an accurate definition of “liquid courage.” Wines from every cellar were consolidated and blended together and this massive alcoholic concoction served to satisfy (perhaps impair) the troops. After successfully warding off the first assault, rumors soon spread throughout the Turks’ encampment that this ragtag group of brute-strengthened Hungarians were guzzling literal bulls’ blood. They soon retreated, and thus the legendary Egri Bikavér was born.
J&J’s inaugural release was 2006, though wine was produced in 2004 and 2005. Why no commercial release to recoup their expenditures then? The devil is in the details: John Szabo wanted flawlessness—Master Sommeliers tend to aim for that—and he deemed both vintages a shade under perfect. So rather than release a product he wasn’t 100% on board with, they were held back. It paid off: for over a decade now, the wines have been lauded for purity and terroir expression. Their Kékfrankos bottling utilizes two estate-owned vineyards with ~40 year old vines dug into limestone and volcanic soils. Grapes are hand harvested and at their homebase in Eger, they saw an ultra-traditional elevage. Fermentation occurred in large Hungarian oak vessels with only native yeasts and a manual punch down regimen was implemented. The wine then aged in 500-liter barrels for 20 months in their cellar and was bottled unfiltered. Down here, there is a whopping eight mile labyrinth of interconnected cellars that twist all beneath the roads and buildings of Eger. Also, if you ever find yourself in Eger, ask locals to point you toward “The Valley of Beautiful Women”—I kid you not. Locally known as Szépasszonyvölgy, this verdurous Shangri-La houses a mass of cellars literally etched out of the rock. Just pick any door and descend the rocky stairs for a local wine tasting. It truly feels like fantasy.
In the glass, J&J’s 2015 Egri Kékfrankos reveals a dark garnet-purple core with slight ruby reflections on the rim. There is ample concentration here that hints at a serious nose, and it doesn’t disappoint: full dark fruits and wild savory components. Expect brooding notes of black raspberry, huckleberry, blackberry, black cherry, Damson plum, wild herbs, red flowers, fig, anise, undergrowth, crushed rock, and soft layers of spice. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, but showcases an impressive combination of intense wild fruit and freshness. Egri Kékfrankos is incredibly silky, buttressed by smooth tannins and rich black/blue fruit textures. It finishes clean and long. I believe this will evolve wonderfully over the next 5-10 years and if you love the “wild” side of wine, be sure to stow a few bottles away. For everyone else, show a brief 15-30 minute decant and pour into Burgundy stems around 60 degrees. A simple preparation of homemade pastrami is the food of choice here. Eat, drink, and enjoy!
