I typically reach for Meursault when I’m looking for a top expression of Côte de Beaune and the celebrated “Genevrières” Premier Cru never disappoints, as long as you choose carefully! I get it, Burgundy can be daunting—downright intimidating—but Domaine Chavy-Chouet serves to dispel all that. There is nothing quite like a perfectly-aged Meursault from a top site; truly, they can make for some of the world’s classiest, most complex, and downright delicious whites. So why does Chavy-Chouet qualify as one?
First, location: They own just a half-acre in the coveted “Genevrières” and their tiny parcel of old vines was planted during the final year of World War II. Second, prowess: Though only on the scene for a few decades, this is a family-run domaine with seven generations of winemaking experience. Third, style: it’s not overly dense nor ‘puckeringly’ angular—they practice traditional winemaking by using judicious levels of new French oak and avoiding fining/filtration. This leaves you with a breathtaking expression of pure and elegant Chardonnay with superb texture, minerality, and seamless fruit. I must add this wine has zero premature oxidation, which can be an issue with older white Burgundies. You just can’t find Meursault of this rank, age, and freshness at this price point very often; I do wish there was an unlimited amount to offer, but we could only corral a very small number of cases. Only three bottles per customer today!
Chavy-Chouet has become an unstoppable force. In a matter of decades, this family-run Meursault-based estate has acquired prime real estate and bottled some of Côte de Beaune’s tastiest whites (they make a small amount of fine red, too). During their expansion, they have stuck to lutte raisonée (‘reasoned fight’) farming practices while managing to be completely organic in some years. That’s quite a feat for a domaine with approximately 30 acres of vines that are divided into 70 different plots. Proprietor Hubert Chavy-Chouet established the domaine in just 1982, but its youth is irrelevant: he was the sixth generation in his family to make wine, and his son, Romaric, recently became the seventh. So, while the estate itself may be relatively new, the family has rich history that shows in their wines.
The Premier Cru “Genevrières” vineyard—considered one of the greatest in Meursault, which has no Grand Crus—is divided into two plots at different hillside altitudes: “Dessus” and “Dessous” (above and below). Out of Genevrières’ 41 acres, Domaine Chavy-Chouet owns .37 (note the decimal) of them right in the middle of the hillside. Their ~75 year old vines are planted on a steep, rock slope in limestone and clay soils. They are adamant about farming sustainably and have many organic practices in place. The high density planting (about 4,000 vines per acre) is desirable, as many vignerons believe each vine must vigorously fight for the soil’s nutrients and rainfall. All grapes are hand harvested and after fermentation, the wine is transferred into French oak barrels (20% new) for 12 months. Romaric avoids fining and filtration in order to preserve the wine’s purity.
Chavy-Chouet’s Genevrières reveals a deep yellow core with intense light gold reflections flitting out to the rim. Thanks to the warmth of 2009, there is great concentration in the nose, but a sense of freshness and precision cuts right through. Expect ripe expressions of yellow apple, Anjou pear, white peach, toasted hazelnut, lime blossoms, white flowers, and for any who has enjoyed the great wines of Roulot and Coche-Dury, you’ll pick up on the racy mineral presence of gunflint, crushed stone, and oyster shell. All of this is rounded out by a subtle array of baking spices with hints of honey and dried herbs. This isn’t a flabby, overtly rich style of white Burgundy—Chavy-Chouet brilliantly showcases elegance and a deep sense of minerality. The ripe fruit lends to the medium-plus bodied palate and it finishes bright, supple, and pure all-in-one. It’s drinking wonderful right and not suffering from any sort of “tiredness”—I expect this to continue over-performing for the next five years, but there’s no need to wait. Simply pull the cork an hour before service and enjoy in large Burgundy stems around 55 degrees (please not too cold). The attached recipe will test your patience, but do try and take your time with the wine! You’ll be stunned with its evolution if you do.
