This is yet another “insider wine” for those searching for premier terroir without a premium. Though you won’t see “Meursault” on the label, this is essentially its younger brother at a wildly affordable price. As far as labeling goes, it only comes down to a technicality: this “basic” Bourgogne is all estate-owned fruit hailing from the area of Meursault—though portions are just outside of the communal appellation. While that may be enough to disqualify it as a “true” Meursault, “Les Saussots” meets and far surpasses every value parameter we look for on SommSelect.
Domaine Chavy-Chouet farms with organic practices and is backed by seven generations of winemaking wisdom; they are masters of White Burgundy—especially in the realm of Meursault (they craft several from different vineyards). Though today’s offer isn’t as rich, there is impressive texture here. It’s certainly livelier, too, with unbelievably bright and expressive mineral-driven notes that have no business showing up in a wine this affordable. The appellation of “Bourgogne Blanc” may be considered entry-level and basic, but tasting “Les Saussots” will immediately put that notion to bed. This is simply one our greatest finds to date and it should be considered as an all-time white wine value. Buy it by the case and you’ll wow anyone and everyone each time you open a bottle.
Chavy-Chouet has become an unstoppable force. In a matter of decades, this family-run Meursault-based estate has acquired prime real estate and bottled some of Côte de Beaune’s tastiest whites (they make a small amount of fine reds, too). During their expansion, they have stuck to lutte raisonnée principles while farming entirely organic in some years. That’s quite a feat for a domaine with approximately thirty acres of vines that are divided into 70 different plots. Proprietor Hubert Chavy-Chouet established the domaine in just 1982, but its youth is deemed irrelevant: he was the sixth generation in his family to make wine, and his son, Romaric, recently became the seventh. So, while the estate itself may be relatively new, the family has rich history that shows in their wines.
Romaric makes two Bourgogne Blancs and both have impressive origins. “Les Femelottes” is entirely sourced from the area of Puligny-Montrachet and today’s “Les Saussots” is from its northern neighbor: Meursault. It’s sourced from some of their younger Meursault-designated vines (though most are over 40 years old) and vineyards just outside the communal appellation. Simply put, this isn’t a conventional Bourgogne Blanc. Romaric employs a small team to harvest all grapes by hand and, like his father did, makes wine in a traditional style. After a slow and cool fermentation, the wine ages in new (lightly toasted) and used French barrels before being bottled without fining or filtration: he “prefers their purity to shine through.”
In the glass, “Les Saussots” shows a pale straw core with platinum reflections that lead out to a silvery rim. You’ll immediately pick up on its youthfulness on the nose; this is immensely fresh and there’s almost a cooling sensation as you sniff. Alluring aromas of quince, yellow apple skin, white peach, preserved lemon, citrus blossoms, and pineapple core shine through, followed by notes of crushed chalk, wet stone, hazelnut, slight cream, and delicately-woven baking spices. The medium-bodied palate is soft and elegant—nearly crisp in style—but with rich layers. Nervy stone minerality and fresh waves of acid sit in perfect harmony with a delicate core of just-ripe, and finely-textured fruits. This overperforming Bourgogne is such a beautiful, ready-to-drink Chardonnay (but you can cellar over the next five years!). Enjoy it just like you would a Meursault—in Burgundy stems around 55 degrees while tracking its evolution over a couple hours. Pair next to a fresh lobster pasta that’s coated with an herbed cream sauce and don’t be ashamed when you open a second bottle halfway through the meal. Cheers!