Odds are, you’ve never heard of Bonneau—neither had I. Before my tasting we all assumed it was a French producer, so when a Rutherford Cabernet landed on our table, we were bemused, sure, but certainly intrigued. After tasting, we were wildly impressed across the board—to the extent of calling the owner and asking for another bottle (better safe than sorry).
Turns out, there was a connection to France: his family moved from Bordeaux at the turn of the 20th century and today’s bottle from Rutherford, ironically enough, also draws French parallels. Per Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson: “To explain Rutherford to a visitor schooled in French wine, you might describe it as the Pauillac of California. This is Cabernet country par excellence.” And with that in mind, Bonneau’s wine is up there with the best: it’s incredibly dense, fresh, and layered with dark fruits, all of which exists in a profusion of well-integrated baking spices. I would argue this is prime Rutherford Cabernet at its most affordable; finding another similarly-priced bottle performing at a level this high would be a tough assignment. Which makes sense upon realizing this wine, outside of today, typically carries an $85 price tag. Plain and simple, this is one of the best New World deals we’ve ever offered. Most of you love Napa Cabernet, value, and affordability—terms that struggle to coexist peacefully—and today you can have all three. I guarantee you’ll drink this wine often, which is why I bought the lot and can offer a case per customer today. This is the Napa deal of a lifetime—take advantage of it!
During the advent of the 20th century, August and Catherine Bonneau arrived on San Franciscan soils to start anew. They slowly worked their way up north and eventually settled after purchasing 70-acres of Sonoma land in 1921. They made ends meet by farming, operating a dairy, and running a delicatessen corner store. Catherine, however, never forgot her grape-growing heritage back in Bordeaux—it was she who always longed to plant vines in America, but her dream would have to wait. It wasn’t until 1988 when her daughter, Yvonne, realized her mother’s vision by planting thirty acres of vine on their Sonoma property.
After nearly fifteen years of supplying grapes to respected wineries, Yvonne’s son, John Bambury, tried his own hand in winemaking and released the inaugural vintage of Bonneau Wines in 2002. Today, he continues working the vineyards and crafting the wine, though the new generation now joins his side. Since their inception, Bonneau has expanded into other areas, like today’s Cabernet from Rutherford AVA. Though these vineyards aren’t estate-owned, he sources from top sites. Following a hand harvest, the grapes were shuttled to Deerfield Ranch Winery in Kenwood (where Kosta Browne used to vinify their wines). The grapes saw a lengthy fermentation on their skins and the juice was then transferred into new and used French oak for a whopping 34 months. The allotment we secured today hasn’t moved since being bottled at the winery.
In the glass, the wine is 100% opaque with a dark purple core leading out to a ruby rim. The nose is seductive and rich, full of concentrated flavors like créme de cassis, blackberry, ripe plum, black cherry, and ground cacao bean. What follows is an impressive array of earth and non-fruit components: tobacco leaf, crushed stone, cigar box, cedar, slight peppercorn, and a wonderful collection of baking spices. The palate is full-bodied, but persisting freshness and lifted acidity keeps this from taking on any sort of “jamminess” or over-extraction. It’s a rich wine sporting soft-shouldered tannins with a lingering core of sweet fruit, earth, and spice. It will age well over the next 5-10 years, but there is no reason to wait, everything is perfectly integrated after a quick thirty minute decant. Show this off next to the attached braised lamb shank recipe and you’ll be in a good place. Enjoy!