Bandol Rouge has never been widespread in the US market, which is odd, as it is the Provençal equivalent of the greatest Bordeaux—dark, deeply complex red wine that will age a lifetime. For me, it’s like blending great Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Burgundy, and Bordeaux into one. If you have not tried Bandol by now, this is your chance to taste one of the best I’ve had this year at an incredibly low price.
Outside of appellation-defining producers such as Tempier, Pradeaux, and Pibarnon, there has been a new wave of producers introducing styles more accessible in their youth. However, many of these (sadly) neglect the traditional style and classic terroir of Bandol. Not Bastide de la Ciselette: Though only eight years on the scene, the wines taste as if they were eight generations in the making. No tradition is lost here—this Bandol Rouge is full of voluptuous dark fruit with breathtaking expressions of minerality and earth that build throughout a spice-tinged finish. This style of wine is what originally made the region world-class and I’d happily include it in the ranks of the blue-chip producers listed above. The only difference is Bastide de la Ciselette’s generous price! For just over $30, you can experience the top tier of Bandol without having to wait a decade for the wine to mature. How is that not a win-win scenario? This is a new discovery you’ll be very glad you made and one you can enjoy over the next decade. Don’t miss this timeless gem!
First, a quick overview of Bandol: this small appellation within larger Provence
hugs the Mediterranean coast just southeast of Marseille. It heavily relies on Mourvèdre, a sun-loving grape that creates brooding wines which can develop over decades. Bandol Rouge must be harvested at low yields and the final blend requires a minimum 50% Mourvèdre. The wine is typically rounded Grenache and/or Cinsault—what they consider blending grapes.
Vine planting and winemaking in Bandol are estimated to date to 600 B.C., yet despite this history, Bastide de la Ciselette is one of just 60 or so wine estates in the region. To put that in perspective, Napa was first planted to vines in the mid-1800s and is now home to more than 400 wineries. Bastide de la Ciselette may still be in its adolescence, but its founder, Robert De Salvo, has a rich history. His family has grown fruit here since the 1940s and he proudly represents the fifth generation. When he decided to stop selling grapes to local co-ops, he founded the estate in 2010 and is already crafting one of—if not the best—value-driven Bandol on the market. His winemaker, Romain Bournaud, also has an impressive background, having most recently worked at Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux.
Bastide de la Ciselette’s 37 acres of vine are all estate-owned, but their Bandol Rouge is sourced from the few acres of 60-year-old vines that immediately surround the estate. They farm according to ‘lutte raisonée’ principles with many organic and biodynamic practices in place (plowing by horse and following the lunar calendar, for example). Furthermore, yields in Bandol are notoriously low—lower than most other regions—and De Salvo doesn’t break that trend. After hand harvesting, grapes were sent to the winery where they fermented on their skins for three weeks before being transferred into large foudres for 18 months. The final blend was 80% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache.
This 2014 displays an intense garnet core with ruby tints leading out to the rim. It’s opaque and deeply concentrated, with thick, slow-moving tears. On the nose, the wine reveals an impressive rush of elegant and dark fruit: currant, black cherry liqueur, candied blackberry, black plum, huckleberry, and then Rhône-like notes of pepper, olive tapenade, and garrigue follow. A wonderful array of purple flowers, licorice, subtle baking spice, and mocha also reveal themselves. Youthful Bandol wines typically showcase immense tannins that are often rigid, but the integration of ripe Grenache in this bottle rounds out the palate with a marked softness. This is wholeheartedly full-bodied, with perfect freshness and minerality alongside polished black fruits; a wine without rough edges. Though you can certainly enjoy this after a 1-2 hour decant, I think its peak drinking will start in 2020, lasting until 2035 and beyond. Pour into large Bordeaux stems (pop the cork morning-of, if desired) and pair alongside a the attached Tunisian couscous dish topped with grilled sausage. Cheers!
