Tortochot’s 2014 Chambertin is a Pinot Noir beyond comparison from arguably the most famous site in all of the Cote d’Or. Chambertin—made famous by Napoleon—is as much a monument to French culture as it is a vineyard. The relatively small amount of wine produced from its 33 total acres (Tortochot only owns one) can result in Burgundy’s most powerful and ageworthy Pinot Noirs. And, with boundaries that haven’t changed since the Middle Ages, producers can count themselves lucky if they have holdings here.
Naturally, wines from Chambertin command astronomical prices. Tortochot, however, offers not only one of the best examples of Chambertin I’ve tasted from 2014, but does so—believe it or not—at a price far less than its vine neighbors. Great Burgundy, when priced accordingly, deserves to be a cornerstone for any wine lover's collection—it delivers unfathomable depth and ages effortlessly. Tortochot’s Chambertin is exactly that and will instantly become one of those memorable bottles you keep bringing up in conversation as years drift by. It has the incredible concentration of classic Chambertin without coming close to the prices of ultra high-end producers like Rousseau, Dugat-Py, and Dujac. These name are at the apex of top-tier Burgundy and it’s time to make room for Tortochot. Their ‘14 is a textbook example and it has potential to outperform any red Burgundy years down the road so don’t limit yourself to just one—this is a rare chance to experience one of the world’s greatest vineyards. We can offer up to three bottles per person today.
As is so often the case in tradition-bound Burgundy, the Tortochot family has farmed vines in Gevrey-Chambertin since the late-1800s. The current-day Domaine Tortochot has been helmed by Chantal Tortochot since 1996, and it is under her guidance that the property has found commercial and critical success. Chantal’s first order of business upon taking over for her father, Gabriel, was overseeing the conversion of their vines to organic viticulture. Tortochot received official certification with the 2013 vintage, and it’s reflected in the ‘house style’ at the domaine: these are robust, well-concentrated wines from carefully tended old vines.
Over Chambertin’s subsoil of marl lies a surface of scree (fragmented rock) and limestone that results in one of the most powerful mineral footprints for Pinot Noir on earth. Domaine Tortochot’s parcel here—a single acre of ~50 year old vines—sits on higher ground in the vineyard, which lends a touch of finesse and refreshing lift to its abundant power. The Tortochots meticulously prune, green harvest, and severely limit yields, resulting in ample concentration and immense purity of fruit and terroir. The grapes are entirely hand-harvested and 100% de-stemmed in the winery. The fruit is fermented with only natural yeasts in climate-controlled stainless steel tanks, where the wine sees pump-overs and twice daily punch-downs. It is then transferred into 100% new French oak for 18 months and bottled without fining or filtration.
In the glass, Tortochot’s 2014 Chambertin reveals a nearly opaque dark ruby core with magenta-like hues on the rim. The nose is classic Chambertin, full of intense fruits like red and black cherry, black currant, wild red berries, and fresh accents of baking spice. Aromatics of licorice and Pu-erh tea follow, alongside earth-driven notes of damp wildflowers, forest floor, graphite, underbrush, tobacco leaves, and dried mushroom. The palate shows incredible concentration, minerality, and weight, delivering a nearly full-bodied mouthfeel. Firmly pronounced tannins are juxtaposed next to several waves of freshness, but its profound structure and minerality take center stage. Expect a lengthy finish—thanks to the power of 2014—and revel in its lingering immensity. This magnificent wine really needs another five years before showing off its true worth, but its apogee will come around 15-20 years (while lasting much longer than that). That said, Tortochot’s Chambertin is much more approachable compared to others, so if you feel like opening sooner rather than later, decant at least 2 hours before consuming in large Burgundy stems. Though far from a traditional pairing, I drank this bottle next to my mother-in-law’s shanghainese pork belly—the attached recipe isn’t an exact replica (we can’t give away every secret!), but it’s pretty close. We loved this combination and hope you do too!
