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Domaine de la Ronceray, Saint-Estèphe

Bordeaux, France 2004 (750mL)
$29.00
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Domaine de la Ronceray, Saint-Estèphe

Our latest shipment of direct-import Bordeaux landed in our warehouse recently, and now that the wines have had some time to rest, it’s time to start doling out the treats! I can’t think of a better wine to start with than today’s 2004 Saint-Estèphe, which we opened and tasted with a mixture of excitement and relief—there’s a lot of time and distance between where I originally tasted this wine and our headquarters in northern California, so it’s an especially sweet victory when the wine shows up in perfect condition, firing on all cylinders right out of the bottle.
This is velvety, floral and classic aged Bordeaux at a price that is not to be believed. I’m not exaggerating when I say that no other region in the world can deliver wines like this—namely, pedigreed, still-powerful reds with more than a decade of age for less than $30. This ‘04 is primed and ready to drink now—no waiting, no yearning—so let your younger wines sleep longer and discover what I’m boldly declaring our greatest Bordeaux value yet (but more on the way!). When I discovered Domaine de la Ronceray on our most recent trip, it was completely foreign to me—to all of us—and immediately after tasting, I begged them to direct us to their stockpile. Sadly, there wasn’t a grand trove or secret stash. We bought all that remained and now it is sitting in our warehouse. Grab as many as you can and enjoy; it’s a no-brainer at this price!
Saint-Estèphe, which abuts Pauillac to the north, is the birthplace of Domaine de la Ronceray. Established in 1963, this minuscule, top-quality estate is only three miles to Lafite-Rothschild as the crow flies and even less to “super second” Cos d’Estournel. The proprietor, Les Domaines Pedro, is a farming society that also owns two other small Bordeaux estates and with today’s home run of a wine, I’ll be eager to visit them when I arrive in France for a three-month sojourn later this year. 

The size of the estate is a drop in the ocean compared to all others, coming in at a mere 5 acres. Their 30+ year old vines are situated on a clay-chalk plateau in the southern part of the commune and are planted to 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot—the wine’s final blend nearly reflects this. All grapes are picked by hand and undergo a traditional vinification in the winery. The wine aged in 40% new French oak for 15 months before being bottled unfiltered. By Bordeaux standards, production was limited. 

In the glass the wine shows a nearly opaque garnet core with orange and brick reflections along the rim (sediment is present so stand upright 24 hours if you’re trying to avoid the bulk of it). Right after pulling the cork, you know the wine will be gorgeous. Warm purple and red flowers greet you and directly out of the bottle—no decant needed—the fruits start to come alive. There are seamless aromas of red currant, cassis, black plum, leather, damp earth, clay, tobacco, bay leaf, cedar, and lingering notes of baking spice. A medium-bodied wine, we were all impressed with how the structure has maintained itself over the course of 14 years: The tannins are smoothed and lifted acid hints to another 5-7 years of drinking, but this is a wine that should be enjoyed now. Pop and pour in large Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees, only decanting if you want to shed sediment. There are multiple layers of delicate notes here that could get lost with too much air, so drink over a 90 minute window to be safe. Pair this alongside a dish with subtle and lasting flavors, as in the attached duck recipe. That’s a pretty elegant meal at any price, but especially this one. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Bordeaux
Sub-Region
FranceSaint-Estéphe
Soil
Clay & Limestone
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Merlot 30%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
40% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2020
Decanting
Optional (Sediment)
Pairing
Sautéed Duck Breasts w/ Wild Mushrooms

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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