As I’ve said before, there’s always more to learn when it comes to wine. For me, being a sommelier is an ongoing study project, and one producer we got to know a lot better in 2017 was Varner: Run by twin brothers Bob and Jim Varner, this boutique label has long been associated with the Santa Cruz Mountains, where they’ve been hand-farming and hand-crafting great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay since the 1980s—without, despite consistent critical acclaim and a devoted sommelier following, raising their prices to stratospheric levels.
We were surprised to learn (as we noted in a previous Varner offer), that the brothers didn’t own their vineyards in Santa Cruz—vineyards they’ve made justly famous—and that, following the 2014 vintage, they’d lost their lease on the Spring Ridge Vineyard. While grapes from this dry-farmed, impeccably maintained site will continue to find their way into noteworthy wines, this 2013 from Varner—one of four distinct bottlings they craft from this vineyard—is some of the last Varner wine we’ll see from Spring Ridge. Today’s offering, the 2013 “Hidden Block” Pinot Noir, is what you might call “going out with a bang.” We were entranced by its lasting perfume, its depth, and its pitch-perfect balance—a luscious Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir that also displays great energy and tension. Then there’s the value proposition: For a 500-case wine with a decades-long track record, it remains remarkably affordable. We’re very excited to share it with you today.
The Varners characterize 2013 as a cool vintage, and we noticed a level of tension and lift in the wine that clearly spoke to that. In the glass, it’s a deep, reflective ruby with hints of pink and magenta at the rim. Aromas of black and red cherry, raspberry, licorice, black tea, baking spices and underbrush carry through onto a lush, nearly full-bodied palate. There’s lots of texture here, with plenty of acid lending freshness and fine-grained tannins lending crunch. It’s a joy to drink now at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems, and I anticipate it continuing to deliver great pleasure over the next 5-7 years. It’s as serious a California Pinot as we’ve tasted all year, ready to grace your table at an upcoming celebration alongside the spicy/sweet interplay of these Chinese spare ribs. It should be a fantastic combination. Cheers!