You all know this by now, but I’ll repeat it anyway: These days, it’s imperative—and often, like today, incredibly rewarding—to turn over every rock in Burgundy to find value. Burgundy has always been a place characterized by limited production, exclusivity, and sometimes ruthless allocations of the top wines—all of which has been exacerbated by more and more sommeliers, retailers, and consumers declaring their love for the region.
The good news is that the traditional “quality” hierarchy is being upended at every turn; you’ve got all sorts of prestige names launching projects in lower-rent outposts like the Mâcon, and it’s clear that the increased global demand for Burgundy has “lifted all boats,” so to speak. As such, most of the greatest Burgundy buys we’ve offered all year have been from what might be considered ‘second-tier’ villages: Pernand-Vergelesses is one that leaps immediately to mind, and today we make one of our first (but certainly not our last) forays into Monthelie. Wedged between Volnay and Meursault, Monthelie produces vastly more red than white, making today’s 2014 that much more unique and impressive: It is close to Meursault in both place of origin and style, showing serious power, perfume, and classic structure. It is delicious to drink now but clearly has the capacity to age, too—what more could you ask for? It jumps right to the top of our list of best values in 2017!
Adding to the already considerable charm of this wine is its fantastic backstory. The name “Cuvée Miss Armande” refers (and pays tribute) to Armande Douhairet, who for many years helmed this family domaine. She had no heirs, and took the extraordinary step of legally adopting André Porcheret—a grown man and well-known Burgundy winemaking figure to boot—so that she could leave the domaine to him (she passed away in 2004). Porcheret, who was the cellar manager at the Hospices de Beaune from 1976-’88 and later made wine at Domaine Leroy, took over the Douhairet vineyards and cellars in 1989; these days it’s his spirited granddaughter Cataldina Lippo who oversees the operation. As they say, all in the family—especially in Burgundy!
Monthelie-Douhairet-Porcheret currently has about 13 hectares of vineyards scattered across Monthelie, Pommard, Volnay, and Meursault. “Cuvée Miss Armande” is sourced primarily from a well-known lieu-dit (named, but not classified, vineyard) called “La Combe d’Anay,” a steep-sloping site with an east-facing (with a slight tilt to the north) aspect. Lippo and her team farm their parcels sustainably, and choose to fully de-stem all their hand-harvested fruit; fermentations are carried out in large, temperature-controlled oak vats, and this 2014 was aged 15 months in 10% new French oak barriques.
In the glass, the 2014 “Cuvée Miss Armande” is a deep, reflective yellow-gold with slight hints of green at the rim. The nose is an assertive mix of Asian pear, apple blossoms, white flowers and meyer lemon followed by notes of toasted hazelnut, white mushroom, beeswax, and even a hint of drawn butter (calling classic Meursault to mind). There’s a level of richness and accessibility that is perfectly framed by acidity, suggesting many years of positive evolution ahead. I’m intrigued to see what this wine becomes after 3-5 years more cellaring; my bet it that it will outperform lots of much-more-expensive competition. It’s been a little while now since I’ve brought out the Zuni roast chicken, and boy is this a perfect wine for it: Decant it about 30 minutes before enjoying at 55-60 degrees in large Burgundy stems (that warmer temperature will accentuate its luxurious texture). Enjoy this—it’s a truly fabulous Burgundy bargain!
