I’ve said before that the word “traditional” often means different things to different people. But for me, especially in Burgundy, the definition is both simple and specific: Traditional red Burgundy must communicate soil character and vintage, above all else. In recent decades, there has been a general trend of modern technology and cellar technique producing softer, younger-drinking, and more fruit-driven red Burgundy. This focus on the technology of winemaking has diluted the region’s historic terroir and centuries-old tradition—and in doing so, it has encouraged many Burgundy newcomers to overlook wines that require time in the cellar before transforming into something magical. So, when I try to turn clients and friends on to Burgundy, I stick to a short list of trusted and traditionalist families. 

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy is one of my most sentimental favorites in this class. This family, led today by Philippe Harmand, works exclusively in Gevrey-Chambertin and has earned a reputation for capturing the essence of this world-famous village in every bottle. They accomplish this by organically farming many top parcels in the village, and by keeping their work in the cellar extraordinarily simple. The end result is consistently brilliant lineup of truly classic and terroir-driven red Burgundy. This showstopping 2012 silences any doubt that the Côte de Nuits’ Grand Crus continue to earn their standing as the finest Pinot Noir vineyards in the world. 

While Harmand-Geoffroy produces 10 separate single-vineyard bottlings each year, today’s Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is the family’s top wine. Grape clusters come exclusively from the family’s .75-hectare parcel in this historic vineyard—one of the single most important vineyards in all of Burgundy—and were hand-harvested and destemmed before three weeks of fermentation. The wine was racked into mostly neutral French oak barrels, where it rested for a year and a half prior to bottling without fining or filtration. There is nothing flashy or modern about this cellar regimen, but it perfectly illustrates Harmand-Geoffroy’s steadfast commitment to tradition.

Harmand-Geoffroy’s 2012 Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin is a supernova of bold fruit, perfectly chiseled tannins and an infinitely long, echoing finish that will keep this wine on your mind for months to come. It’s spectacular. A torrent of cherry, red currant, wild berries, blood orange rind, black truffles, charred meat, and dried flowers are all framed by fine-tuned and judicious oak spice. Harmand is known for bottling savory, almost Rhône-like reds, but this 2012 tones down those characteristics while emphasizing powerful fruit and palpable limestone minerality on the palate. This is Grand Cru Burgundy, so we all know that its finest details will only be revealed after significant aging. I’m setting aside a few bottles until 2020 and experienced collectors would be well advised to do the same. That said, I’m thrilled at how the accommodating 2012 vintage has created a rare Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis that is surprisingly generous today! So, there’s no need to resist pulling the cork immediately—simply decant for two hours and serve in Burgundy stems at 60 degrees. I recommend keeping the accompanying meal simple as well—simple, but certainly not lowbrow! Few things will match a Grand Cru red like a dry-aged Porterhouse. Even if dry-aged beef isn’t available at your local market, there are many outstanding online vendors across the country. For me, nothing beats a seared medium-rare Porterhouse, buttery mashed potatoes and some wilted greens with today’s powerful and regal red! Cheers!