Never mind ‘bi-coastal’: Diana Snowden Seysses has gone ‘multi-national,’ making wine at her family’s estate in Napa Valley while also serving as cellar master at Domaine Dujac, the legendary Burgundy domaine run by her husband, Jeremy Seysses. That’s some résumé, and in each instance, Snowden Seysses draws on generations of family tradition in crafting wines that are true to their respective (and dramatically different) places.
Some critics have cited her lengthy experience in Burgundy as influencing the style of Snowden’s wines, but in tasting today’s 2014 “The Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon, the only ‘Burgundian’ trait I recognize is its faithfulness to its place of origin—in this case, the Snowden Ranch in Napa’s eastern hills. We taste a lot of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon around here, including countless more-expensive examples, and many of them feel more “made” than “grown”—pumped up and stylized past the point of place recognition. Without sacrificing any of the concentration that’s by now a given in this region, this 2014 has an earthy authenticity that channels Napa Cabernets of yore. Perhaps this shouldn’t be surprising, considering Snowden’s proximity to iconic vineyards like Heitz and Joseph Phelps, but what is surprising is this wine’s price: Snowden is a heritage Napa property which, despite its long history and Diana’s growing notoriety, has continued to fly under the radar for most consumers. The critical recognition has caught up, however, so jump on this now before the price does, too—this is new-generation California Cabernet with an Old World soul!
Spanning roughly 160 acres, of which just 23 are planted to vineyards, the Snowden Ranch is situated east of Rutherford, with an assortment of vineyard blacks climbing from 600 to 800 feet elevation and higher. The property is positioned in the foothills of the Vaca Range, about a mile east of the Rutherford and St-Helena AVAs and about two miles south of Howell Mountain. First established as a homestead in the 1870s, the property surrounding the vineyards has been allowed to revert to its “wild,” heavily forested state.
“The Ranch” Cabernet, which the Snowdens call their “ambassador” bottling, is sourced from three estate vineyard blocks, all of which are farmed sustainably, without the use of any chemical herbicides. Soils here are predominantly comprised of volcanic material and sandy loam, and the varietal mix in the ’14 breaks down as follows: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak.
In the glass, it’s an opaque dark crimson with purple and garnet highlights. The nose reaches near perfection in terms of Napa Cabernet aromas, with notes of blackberry, cassis, black currant, damp violets, tobacco, dried herbs, pencil lead, raw cacao nibs, and damp earth. So many Napa wines bring the sweet without the savor—this one has both, finishing with a woodsy, underbrush-y flourish. Fresh acidity and a satisfying nip of tannin keep everything nicely tailored, and the finish is aromatic and lifted rather than syrupy and cloying. Decant this succulent wine about 30 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems, and do not hesitate to set a few bottles aside. I foresee this being a reliable go-to over the next 5-7 years, adding layers of earthy savor as it matures. This has got enough depth and appealing rusticity for a roasted lamb shoulder as in the attached recipe. It’s an outstanding Napa value and a must-try. Cheers!