Pauillac is arguably the single most elite zip code in all of Bordeaux. This village’s top wines regularly command upwards of $600 per bottle upon release, and for many collectors and sommeliers, they represent the global benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wines. Now, what if I told you that, in the entire area of Pauillac cornered by iconic First Growths Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lafite Rothschild, and “super second” Château Pontet-Canet, there is only one parcel—literally one hectare of vines—that still remains in the hands of an independent grower-winemaker? It’s true: Dead center in some of Pauillac’s most valuable real estate sits one lone hectare producing a few hundred cases of truly extraordinary, handmade Pauillac each year. Welcome to Château Chantecler!

You may have seen this property receiving top honors in recent Decanter magazine piece, “The Last Little Guys of Pauillac,” but Chantecler’s is a fascinating story that is worth exploring further. Yannick Mirande grew up in wine and his family has owned and worked vineyards in Pauillac for many generations. Over the years, the Mirande family assembled a respectable 12-hectare collection of vineyards and were able to earn a living selling their harvest to prestigious neighbors like Mouton and Lafite. In the aftermath of the 2000 “vintage of the century” hysteria, demand for Pauillac fruit skyrocketed and real estate values quickly followed suit. Yannick’s aunt was unable to resist the temptation of selling almost all the Mirandes’ vines to Mouton Rothschild in 2004. Fortunately, Yannick salvaged the family’s crown jewel, a one-hectare hillside parcel of a Pauillac lieu dit, “Plateau de Padarnac,” for himself. Over the next six years, he continued farming and improving his small vineyard, selling fruit to various cru classé neighbors, and apprenticing while honing his skills in the cellar.

Having made great strides as a winemaker and vigneron, Yannick finally released his first vintage of Château Chantecler in 2010. He bottles only 275 cases of this one cuvée, composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. To put that in context, consider that neighboring Mouton ($600/btl), Lafite ($600/btl) and Pontet-Canet ($135/btl) own 676 acres of vines in Pauillac and produce a combined 80,000-85,000 cases of wine each vintage. Mirande farms his small plot of vines using a hybrid of organic and biodynamic practices. The soil in this hillside site is classic Pauillac gravel, with vines averaging 45 years of age. 

I was deeply impressed by Yannick’s inaugural 2010 Château Chantecler and furthermore by the visceral power and depth he extracted from an otherwise underwhelming 2011 vintage in Pauillac. One strong “rookie vintage can be a lucky fluke, but three consecutive releases across a variety of conditions convincing proof that Yannick has all the right moves. For me, this 2012 represents his ascension to the world stage. 2012 is a giving and young-drinking vintage and I can’t say enough flattering things about the wine.

Mirande’s 2012 provides everything I demand from a top vineyard site in Pauillac, and a superlative “big kahuna gift wine for the holidays—minus the 3-digit price tag! Its garnet-black appearance and intense concentration accurately forecast a wine of formidable power and depth. Incredibly refined, classic Pauillac aromas of blackberry, black plum, Cuban tobacco, cedar, graphite, and wet stone accompany absolutely immaculate tannins, vivid texture, and infinite finish. You can dig a nice crater in your 401k by exploring the wines of Pauillac, but you’ll be hard pressed to find an example as finely detailed and regal as this 2012 Chantecler. There’s just an extra layer of finesse and three-dimensional authenticity here that I don't often encounter in Pauillac, even in far-more-expensive bottles. Give this momentous wine due deference with 90 minutes of air in a decanter prior to serving at 60 degrees in an oversized Bordeaux stem. I recommend gathering some close friends to empty one or two bottles alongside a platter of reverse-seared, medium-rare Porterhouse steaks and a crisp, bubbling potato gratin. This bottle is a tour de force today, but I have zero doubt that it is also armed with the spine and stuffing to improve for at least 15-20 additional years in your cellar.  With that in mind, please set aside a few bottles so you can witness their gradual and flattering evolution. Finally, Château Chantecler’s rapidly growing reputation and still fair cost make it an outstanding investment. It never hurts to buy a few extra bottles in situations like this. I’m personally looking forward to showing it off in a few years when prices go through the roof! Cheers!