Like so many up-and-coming vintners in California, Tatomer doesn’t have the house on the hill surrounded by ‘estate’ vineyards, but rather space in a cooperative facility in Santa Maria and hard-won ‘contract’ relationships with top local grape-growers. Despite only being in his mid-thirties, his wine resumé is already quite long: He landed his first part-time job at Santa Barbara Winery at the age of 16, quickly caught the bug, then made, and sold, his first wine before he graduated from high school. He worked as a cellar grunt around Santa Barbara as an unquenchable thirst for Riesling, of all grapes, continually grew. In 2003, he landed an opportunity with Weingut Knoll, one of the most revered wine estates in all of Austria, where he fine-tuned his winemaking skills for Grüner and Riesling under the guidance of Emmerich Knoll. Upon his return home, Graham worked as a winemaker for Martian Ranch, Ojai, and Brewer-Clifton as he labored to start his own brand. In 2008, his eponymous label was born, and while his focus was on Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, he didn’t forget what he’d learned about Pinot Noir, particularly at Brewer-Clifton (where the first Tatomer wines were vinified).

Among the multitude of well-known Santa Barbara County vineyards Tatomer sources from (Kick-On Ranch and Rancho Sisquoc among them), the Duvarita Vineyard is his site of choice for Pinot Noir. Located just outside the “wine ghetto” town of Lompoc, and situated ever-so-marginally to the west of the Santa Rita Hills AVA boundary, Duvarita (formerly known as Presidio Vineyard) covers 26 acres on predominantly sandy-loam soils. Graham notes that “his” parcels have a southwesterly aspect, exposing them all the more to Pacific-borne breezes. This wine was fermented using 80% whole grape clusters, which seems to have helped mitigate alcohols and lend the wine its earthy, mineral underpinning. It was aged 18 months in used French oak barrels, and, now with a touch of bottle age under its belt, it’s showing a great mix of ripe fruit and stony savor. 

In the glass, the 2014 “Duvarita” is a deep, reflective ruby with light garnet highlights at the rim, with the coastal wild berry fruit we all adore counterbalanced by complex savory notes often found in the top wines from Burgundy and Germany (yes, Germany makes incredible Pinot). Black cherry, wild raspberry, damp violets, black tea, underbrush, and spice-box notes light up the aromatic profile and carry through to the multi-layered palate with a beautiful richness. The fine-grained tannins and earthy tones might fake you into thinking you’re in Morey-St-Denis, but there is a kiss of sunny Californian fruit on the finish giving clues to its origins. It is ready to drink now: Open the bottle about a half-hour before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees, and don’t be afraid to pair it with fish or more delicate meats and poultry. It’s got the finesse and savor to complement seasonal salmon preparations like the attached. Cheers!