Anne and Hervé Sigaut are a low-key couple farming about seven hectares of vineyards and generally flying under the radar despite the ethereal excellence of their wines. They are most readily associated with Chambolle-Musigny, and while they don’t own any Grand Crus, they have a bevy of old-vine Premier Crus: “Fuées,” “Chatelots,” “Noirots” and “Sentiers” in Chambolle, as well as small parcels in the Morey Premier Crus “Millandes” and the source of today’s wine, “Charrières.”

The “Charrières” vineyard is a special site, situated just downslope from Morey’s celebrated Grand Cru “Clos de la Roche.” The Sigauts work it and their other vineyards according to ‘lutte raisonée’ principles, farming completely organically unless an extreme emergency requires other intervention. Hand-harvested grapes are completely de-stemmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aging typically takes place in mostly used French oak for 15-16 months. They are then “racked to tank”—decanted from the barrels and rested in stainless steel vats for a short period to settle, so they can be bottled without fining or filtration.

The Sigaut wines are incredibly pure, refined, elegant expressions of Burgundy Pinot Noir. In the glass, the 2014 is a deep ruby with garnet reflections at the rim, with aromatics that make you feel like you are picking wild berries in the forest: scents of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry mix with notes of wild mushroom, underbrush, black tea, and dried flowers. Medium-plus in body and supported by soft, fine-grained, perfectly ripe tannins, this is a very complete wine already, both silky and long—as I’ve said many times recently, the 2014 Burgundy reds are on fire right now—but the real magic should start around 2020, when this should start entering its peak and offer many years of delicious drinking thereafter. This wine just screams “Pinot Noir”—or rather, it whispers it, seductively; if you’re enjoying a bottle now, decant it about 30 minutes before serving it in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. It will pair nicely with a huge range of dishes, but the attached “weeknight porchetta” jumped out at me. It’s a gutsy dish for a woodsy (yet refined) red wine. Cheers!