The cooler climate of Anderson Valley delivers what I believe to be the missing ingredient for many California Pinot Noirs—a vivid acidity that enlivens your palate—and that is not by accident. Anderson Valley is embedded in rolling hills that extend to the Pacific Ocean, and this exceptional 2014 Pinot Noir from the upstart Thralls Winery is a spot-on evocation of its place of origin.
Among the many things that impressed me about this wine is how relatively new winemaker Ed Thralls is to the California scene; to “nail it” like this so soon out of the gate, at an extremely attractive price to boot, is an achievement we’re excited to showcase on SommSelect. In a market full of boutique Pinot Noirs priced for the one percent, Thralls kept the ‘boutique’ part—he produced only 100 cases, and has broken off a nice chunk for our subscribers—but found a way to keep it affordable. I really appreciate that, and you will, too: This is among my favorite Californian discoveries of the year!
If you haven’t heard of Thralls Family Cellars, you’re not alone. I was right there with you not too long ago. In 2010, Ed Thralls abandoned his tech career in the Deep South and journeyed west with an end goal to work with the land and create small batch wines. After internships, enology studies at UC-Davis, and years of creating ‘garagiste’ wines, he climbed another rung and established Thralls—his very own full-scale winery. He may only have a few vintages under his belt, but his wine stands above others with a sense of uniqueness. The delicate nose, and the expressiveness on the palate, is something you would expect from a veteran winemaker in Chambolle-Musigny charging twice the price. Ed notes that he has a very capable partner in his wife, Rachel, who assists at every step of the process and is an influential voice during the blending process.
The majority of the grapes in today’s wine come from Roma’s Vineyard, a ridgetop parcel that sits nearly 2,000 feet above sea level. Being one of the highest vineyards within Anderson Valley comes with perks: it avoids low rolling fogs that creep in every morning, allowing more sun exposure for the vines. Roma’s Vineyard also benefits from coastal breezes and experiences upwards of 50 degree temperature shifts from day to night—a key component of a balanced ripening process. And Thralls pinot Noir is perfectly ripe indeed, with a pronounced acidity that makes it dance.
Two Pinot Noir clones were used in the 2014 Thralls Anderson Valley—Pommard and Dijon 777—the former being the preferred clone in Oregon and the latter producing more concentrated berries that ripen earlier. The combination of the two resulted in a delicate wine with intense aromas and flavors. As for the 2014 vintage, the ripening season sped along quickly due to extreme heat and dryness, resulting in an early harvest. Still, grapes were hand-picked at an optimal ripeness just before the onset of severe rains. All grapes were sorted by hand, with 25% of them being set aside for whole cluster fermentation. Native yeasts were used for fermentation and following that, the wine aged in 100% neutral oak for eleven months. And, in classic Burgundian fashion, it was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, the wine reveals a light ruby-red core with slight pink hues on the rim. The nose is stunning and classically Anderson valley. Highly perfumed flowers and black-red fruits burst from the glass in pure Burgundian fashion. On the palate the wine is just below medium-plus bodied and exudes fruits like fresh picked strawberries, pomegranate, black cherry, and crushed kola nut. The delicate sweetness from the core fruits transition smoothly into secondary notes of fresh rose petal, underbrush, damp forest, wild lavender, sage, and finishes with the slightest echo of baking spice. The wine is simply a masterpiece at this price, as it checks off all the boxes for the ultimate trifecta: balance, precision, and perfume. This drinks beautifully right now, but will show its best self in 2-5 years. If cellared properly, you can lose it for a decade or more. That’s what makes the wine so appealing. When consuming over the next few years, decant for 30-45 minutes and consume in large Burgundy stems just above cellar temperature. Its finesse and woodsy savor transport me to a dewy, coastal redwood grove, and with salmon season getting underway in earnest out here in Northern California, I can’t resist another red-wine-with-fish dinner. Don’t miss this wine: It’s a winner. Enjoy!
