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Nicolas-Jay, Pinot Noir “Red Vinyl”

Oregon, United States 2015 (750mL)
Regular price$35.00
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Nicolas-Jay, Pinot Noir “Red Vinyl”

As we continue to grow our SommSelect subscribership, we are working hard on changes not just to the look of our website (coming soon) but to the style and breadth of our offerings. Since Brandon Carneiro and I started the company, mine has been the “voice” of SommSelect, but lately we’ve endeavored to widen our network to include other wine pros whose palates and talents I admire.
Today we welcome Master Sommelier Matt Stamp to kick off our “Satellite Sommelier” series—in which we invite some of the top talents in wine to present one of our daily offers. Matt is a close friend and a fellow-traveler through the MS program whose skills as a sommelier are complimented by his serious talent as a writer (check out this piece he wrote for the GuildSomm website). Matt has come onboard as a regular SommSelect contributor as he prepares to open his downtown Napa wine bar, Compline, this September. He makes his debut with a stellar Oregon Pinot Noir from an exciting new partnership called Nicolas-Jay, yet another Willamette Valley wine crafted by a high-profile Burgundian talent (in this case, Jean-Nicolas Méo of the legendary Méo-Camuzet of Vosne-Romanée). At $35, the price-to-quality of this wine is extraordinary—something that has become a Willamette Valley signature. We loved it, and so did Matt, so please check it out!  — Ian Cauble

On to Matt's story:

So it’s late, and I’m listening to R.E.M.’s cover of “King of the Road” from their “Dead Letter Office” album. It’s a meandering interpretation, purportedly recorded while the band was drunk, but holds intact some original fiber of expression. “Dead Letter Office” was the first CD I bought, at the age of 10. Someone’s older brother, the kind with an arsenal of rebel wisdom, dog-eared Playboys, and lots of rock-n-roll, kept it on repeat in the basement. It was the birth of some kind of 10-year-old cool. And now I’m drinking “Red Vinyl” 2015 Willamette Pinot Noir from Nicolas-Jay, and hitting that same kind of luminous intoxication that Michael Stipe had to break through to channel Roger Miller, and thinking about how older brothers guide a kid’s formative years, and how the Burgundy vignerons are just killing it with Pinot Noir in Oregon these days. Nicolas-Jay is yet another validation, of sorts, of Willamette Valley as a Pinot Noir terroir: It’s the American wine region of choice for wanderlusting Burgundians (in this case Jean-Nicolas Méo, the ‘Nicolas’ in Nicolas-Jay) looking for another outlet for their passion. They craft Pinot Noirs that combine youthful, New World exuberance with the refinement and soil expression of their Old World predecessors—Burgundy “covers” that channel the original but chart their own stylistic course. This is a gently priced example that genuinely rocks.

All this music analogizing is not accidental: The ‘Jay’ in Nicolas-Jay is Jay Boberg, who founded IRS records, R.E.M.’s early home. Méo, of course, is the current steward of Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s star domaines. Together they launched Nicolas-Jay in 2011—an “older brother” from the birthplace of Pinot Noir and an American more used to smashing convention than framing it. The best producers in Burgundy have been snooping around Willamette Valley since Véronique Drouhin arrived in the late 1980s; what was a trickle is now a torrent, demanding serious consideration for Willamette Valley as America’s foremost Pinot Noir country. Jean-Nicolas Méo found his inspiration in the valley’s northern reaches: a high-elevation spot in Eola-Amity Hills, a McMinnville vineyard under the full gale-force of the Pacific, and Yamhill-Carlton’s Bishop Creek. With the purchase of the 15-acre Bishop Creek Vineyard, located on the valley’s prized Willakenzie marine sedimentary soils, the new project became a young domaine. 

At the heart of the 2015 “Red Vinyl” blend, Bishop Creek fruit gives Méo and Associate Winemaker Tracy Kendall a perfumed, appealing and direct style of Willamette Pinot Noir. Ruby-colored, the wine is fruit-driven without going sappy, showing rainier cherry, watermelon, tea, and light floral aromatics. A little new oak (22%) gives the fruit spice tones and structure. There is lushness from the warm vintage yet it stays lively and fresh—don’t be afraid to chill it a few degrees below room temperature to increase gulpability. Tannins are soft, and the wine’s finish reads “tastes delicious” rather than “analyze with wine dorks.” Pair with early fall flavors, like roasted squash, eggplant, sautéed wild mushrooms, and braised kale. Or just pop and drink and rock out. Only 500 cases were made. Real ‘B-sides’ rarity.  — Matt Stamp, MS
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United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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