Over the past several decades, Beaujolais has received a face-lift that has ultimately tightened up quality and put the region as a whole into the much warranted spotlight. If not my word, take Eric Asimov’s of the New York Times, who wrote that “the Beaujolais revival has been one of the most inspiring wine stories of the 21st century.” Still, however, it lacks complete respect in the eyes of some consumers.
Just like German Riesling can be falsely branded as “sweet,” the image of Beaujolais has fell victim to insipidly fruity versions in years past. It is important to note, however, that there are four tiers that drastically measure quality here: Beaujolais Nouveau; Beaujolais; Beaujolais-Villages; and Cru Beaujolais, which consists of 10 villages that were selected as superior terroirs, just like the Grand Cru villages of Champagne. These ten villages, or crus, run north-to-south at the upper limits of the larger Beaujolais area, which abuts Burgundy’s Mâcon region. Each cru has its own unique style, ranging from light and flowery to structured and concentrated. Régnié typically delivers a wine that lies between these two styles, with this offering leaning toward the latter. This is one of those “pure joy” wines we’re so fond of—the kind that reward by-the-case purchasers with a delicious staple for any occasion.
The village of Régnié is the newest of the 10 officially recognized Beaujolais crus (“elevated” in 1988) and certainly one of the most bucolic, with gentle rolling hills that sit 1,000 feet above sea level. Roughly 80 different growers call Régnié home and it’s worth betting that if you knock on a door here, the person who answers probably has grape-stained hands. This certainly is the case for the Cinquin family. Established in 1903, Franck Cinquin is the fourth generation at Domaine des Braves and he has upheld the tradition and style of his forefathers to the utmost degree. Aside from the heralded wines of Guy Breton, Domaine des Braves continually proves to be the premier producer of Régnié.
The estate vineyards of Domaine des Braves are planted on south-facing hillsides in sandy soils that give way to pink granite (a signature of Régnié) and limestone as the roots dig deeper into the earth. The vines average forty-five years of age and the family practices organic farming in lutte raisonée (‘the reasoned fight’) fashion. Essentially, they remain natural and neutral until the forces of Mother Nature require them to intervene—but only as a last resort. Upon harvest, grapes are picked by hand and fermented on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel vessels. Following a quick rest after fermentation, the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered, which is believed to preserve its true character.
In the glass, the wine shows a brilliant dark-ruby core leading into a purplish rim. If anyone tasted Beaujolais from the warm and dry 2015 vintage, you most certainly remember the ultra-ripe style. Comparatively speaking, the 2016 offering from Domaine des Braves is lighter on feet, but still stands firm in terms of concentration. The nose greets you with wild berries, strawberry, black cherry, black plum, crushed granite, fresh violet, rose, lavender, and sage. The entry is wonderfully dense and the layered palate shows concentrated dark flavors that quickly evolve to granitic earth, spices, and a slew of fresh herbal components—all backed by a refreshing acidity that wasn’t as pronounced in 2015. The wine is incredibly approachable right now, but the real secret, the real beauty, lies 3-5 years down the road. Whenever you do drink, I recommend doing so just above cellar temperature in Burgundy stems. The moment I sampled this wine, my mind was transported back to my all-too-short days in Morocco where I spent a few months soaking up the culture and sun. It is here is where I discovered succulent lamb kebabs on a bed of couscous alongside a slew of grilled veggies. Cooking up the attached recipe with this wine will show both in a new light. Enjoy!
