As you’ve no doubt noticed, this is the time of year when not only the wine and food publications but more ‘mainstream’ outlets publish their stories about how rosé is ‘hot’ (or ‘cool’) again. Every year, on cue, rosé returns for a splashy three-month run, like a Las Vegas showman, only to disappear for another year.
Woe is the restaurant wine director with a large stock of unsold rosé in December, or January, with a brand-new vintage just a few months away! Let me just say this: We’re not talking about milk here. These wines, especially bright and energetic Provençal rosés like this 2016 from Château Margui, don’t ‘expire’ after a year. I’d be very happy to be stuck with some of this wine this winter, because it’s still on an upward trajectory, promising to be delicious and invigorating either on its own as an apéritif or paired with any season’s appetizers. This is what Provence does, and they do it better than anyone; this is another great-value choice for those inclined to stock up!
Château Margüi is in the northern part of Provence, in the sub-region known as the Côteaux Varois; this is a relatively cool climate in comparison to more resolutely “coastal” appellations such as Bandol and Cassis. A chain of mountains known as the Massif de Saint-Beaume sits between the Côteaux Varois and the Mediterranean Sea, mitigating the latter’s effect on the climate. Soils, as in most of Provence, have a substantial amount of limestone mixed with clay and pebbles.
The Margüi property had been long neglected before its acquisition by Philippe Guillanton in 2000. Guillanton set about replanting the estate’s vineyards while his wife, Marie-Christine, restored the manor house and gardens on the property. There are now 30 hectares of vines planted to a variety of grapes, including Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, and the white Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) and Clairette—all of which factor into the blend of this rosé. The vineyards are now farmed organically, and this rosé was made in the “direct press” method (i.e. grapes harvested and pressed specifically for rosé) and fermented/aged in stainless steel.
This 2016 has the classic Provençal mix of fruit and savor, propelled by great minerality and acid-driven energy. In the glass, it’s a textbook salmon-pink with coppery reflections at the rim. Aromas of grapefruit, white peach, lavender, wild herbs and a spicy hint of orange rind announce a wine with lots of refreshing crunch. Serve it now, tomorrow, and in perpetuity in all-purpose white wine glasses at 45 degrees; it’ll pair nicely with a huge array of foods, and while I’m tempted to think of something non-summery, there’s no resisting a classic Provençal tomato tart given the time of year. The wine will work great at Thanksgiving, too, but for now, take advantage of the tomatoes. Cheers!
