Despite having one of the world’s oldest wine cultures, Portugal is still what might be called an ‘emerging’ wine market. Its best-known wines—the fortified Ports of the Douro region—were all the rage in the 18th century, but aren’t exactly fashionable today. Producers in the Douro have gotten some traction with non-fortified, ‘dry’ reds and whites from their native grapes, and some of the other classic appellations (Vinho Verde) have had their moments, but on the whole, a lot of American wine lovers may not be past Port—or, worse, ‘70s-era confections like Lancers and Mateus—in their understanding of Portuguese wine.
I’m here to tell you that it’s time to start exploring, and the red wines of the Dão may be the best place to start. Blessed with a relatively cool, mountainous terroir and a trove of distinctive native grapes, the Dão is hardly a “new” region, but it is enjoying a modern renaissance—as evidenced by this 2010 Touriga Nacional from Caves Arcos do Rei. Touriga Nacional is arguably the most distinguished of Portugal’s native red varieties, once a headliner in most Port blends but now showcased just as often in savory, soulful dry reds such as this one. And yet its relative lack of recognition means we get a powerful red with some bottle age—and still lots of life left—for less than $25. There was a lot of excitement as this wine made its way around our tasting table, as it is impressive by any measure and totally unique to boot. Do yourself a favor and grab more than one; if you love bold reds, you’re going to be excited by it, too.
What you get as a result is a wine that has been given the chance to integrate its tannins, wood, and fruit into a coherent, very pleasurable whole. In the glass, the 2010 Valmonte is a deep garnet red with garnet and orange reflections at the rim, with aromatics that skew toward darker fruits and earth: black currant, black cherry, plum, purple flowers, dried mushrooms, tobacco leaf, coffee grounds, cacao, and crushed stones. Touriga Nacional is a hardy, dark, tannic variety and this wine was likely a muscular brute in its youth—now it behaves not unlike a Barolo with similar bottle age, its tannins now mellowed considerably, its alcohol very well-integrated, and its aromatics broadened (if you require further context, think Barolo-meets-Bordeaux-meets-northern-Rhône). It is full-bodied but balanced, with a brooding, savory quality that makes you crave food. Drinking it is like listening to a rumbling bass solo in a jazz song; decant it about 30-45 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees. Serve it with something that will complement its rusticity and mass: it feels like a ‘lamb wine’ to me, so check it out with the attached recipe. But do check it out, regardless of what you cook. You’ll be very glad you did!